Put up a picture ledge shelf on a timber stud wall

1 each · Pencil

1 each · Spirit level (600mm)

1 each · Dust sheet

1 each · Picture ledge shelf, 900mm

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PL-02Work out what's behind your wallRun a stud detector or magnet along the wall — a steady line of screw heads every 400-600mm means a stud wall behind plasterboard. Tap the wall: a dull thud suggests solid brick or block, a hollow sound suggests studs or dot-and-dab. Drill a small 3mm pilot hole in an inconspicuous spot — pale dust means timber or masonry, fine grey swarf means a metal stud, and a slight give with an air gap usually means dot-and-dab or lath and plaster.

1 each · Stud and cable detector

1 each · Drill

1 each · 3mm drill bit

PL-03Check for cables and pipes before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a wall, not just in the usual safe zones, so use a detector before every hole — then still treat the wall as if something is there, since detectors miss deep cables, metal conduit and anything behind metal-backed plasterboard. Before drilling, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut off the water fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn off the water at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry water.

PL-04Mark a level line for the shelfHold the shelf, or a straight batten the same length, against the wall at your chosen height and mark both ends. Use a spirit level to draw a level line between the marks — this is your fixing reference. Mark fixing points along the line roughly every 400-500mm, lining up with stud positions if you have a timber or metal stud wall.

1 each · Spirit level

1 each · Pencil

1 each · Straight batten

PL-05Fix into solid brick or blockDrill with a masonry bit sized to your wall plug — typically 6mm for a standard plug and screw — to a depth of at least 40mm. Push in the wall plug until flush, then drive in the screw until tight but not overtightened. Solid masonry gives the strongest fixing of any wall type here.

1 each · 6mm masonry drill bit

6 each · Wall plugs (Rawlplug), 6mm

6 each · Screws, 40mm

PL-06Fix into a timber stud wallOnce you've found the centre of each stud, drill a small 2-3mm pilot hole to stop the timber splitting. Drive a wood screw at least 40mm long straight into the centre of the stud — skip plugs and toggles here, since solid timber holds far more weight on its own. Space fixings to match the studs, usually 400mm or 600mm apart.

1 each · 3mm pilot drill bit

6 each · Wood screws, 40mm

PL-07Fix into a metal stud wallNever use a plain wall plug or an ordinary wood screw in a metal stud — it strips straight through 0.5mm steel. Use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor rated for the shelf's weight, driven straight into the metal track. A metal stud alone won't hold serious weight or anything that pulls away from the wall, so for a heavier ledge fit a timber noggin between the studs first, or fix through to the masonry behind if there is any.

6 each · Self-drilling metal stud fixings

1 each · Screwdriver bit set

PL-08Fix into dot-and-dab plasterboardDot-and-dab walls have a 10-40mm gap between the plasterboard and the masonry behind, so an ordinary plug won't reach solid material. Use a long fixing made for dot-and-dab, usually 60-75mm, that passes through the board and dab to bite into the brick or block behind. Drill slowly and don't force it, since you may hit an air pocket where the dab hasn't bonded.

6 each · Dot-and-dab / frame fixings, 75mm

1 each · Matching drill bit

PL-09Fix into lath and plasterLath and plaster is older and more fragile, so avoid heavy toggles that can crack the plaster as they open. Find the timber laths behind (narrow strips roughly 25mm wide with small gaps) using a bright light or your detector, and screw into a lath or the stud behind it wherever you can. If you can only fix into plaster itself, use a fixing made for lath and plaster and keep the load light.

6 each · Lath and plaster fixings

PL-10Fit the shelf and check it's levelOffer the shelf up to your fixings and screw or clip it into place. Check it's level along the top with a spirit level, easing the fixings slightly if it needs adjusting before you fully tighten them. Wipe away dust and pencil marks with a cloth.

1 each · Spirit level

1 each · Cloth

PL-11Test the fixing and tidy upRest a picture frame or two on the ledge and check nothing flexes or pulls away from the wall. Fill any stray screw holes with a dab of filler and touch up with matching paint once dry, then vacuum up dust and pack away your tools. If anything feels loose, add an extra fixing rather than risk it failing later.

1 tub · Filler

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1 small tin · Matching paint

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1 each · Filler knife