Put up a spice rack on a dot-and-dab plasterboard wall — HomeGraft

Fit a spice rack safely and levelly to your kitchen wall, checking wall type and fixings before you drill.

SR-01Gather your tools and check the rackLay out the spice rack, pencil, tape measure, spirit level, drill, detector and dust sheet. Check the rack's fixing holes and its stated maximum load, and make sure you have enough spice jars weighed roughly in mind so you don't overload it later. Lay a dust sheet under the work area to catch masonry or plaster dust.

1 each · Spice rack

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1 each · Dust sheet

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1 each · Pencil

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SR-02Mark the position and draw a level lineHold the rack where you want it and mark through the fixing holes with a pencil. Use a spirit level to draw a level line through your marks before drilling anything — a rack that's even 5mm out will look wrong once jars are on it. Double-check the position against nearby units, sockets or tiles so it sits square in the space.

1 each · Spirit level

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1 each · Tape measure

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SR-03Work out what your wall is made ofTap the wall along your marked line. A solid, dull thud with no give is solid brick or block. A hollow sound that changes as you move sideways, with a slight bounce, usually means plasterboard on dot-and-dab or on studs. A very hollow, springy, sometimes crackly feel in an older house often means lath and plaster. If it's a stud wall, use a detector or magnet to trace the line of screw heads holding the plasterboard on, and drill one small pilot hole at a mark: fine wood dust means a timber stud, fine grey metal swarf means a metal stud.

1 each · Stud and cable detector

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1 each · Small magnet

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SR-04Check for cables and pipes before you drillRun your detector over the whole line before drilling. Detectors miss deep cables, cables in metal conduit, anything behind metal-backed plasterboard, and they get confused by metal stud frames, so still treat the wall as if something is there until you prove it isn't. Find your stopcock now, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns freely so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn the water off at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry water.

SR-05Drilling and fixing — dot-and-dab plasterboardBehind dot-and-dab, plasterboard sits on blobs of adhesive with an air gap to the blockwork, so a normal plasterboard plug alone won't reach anything solid. Drill through the plasterboard and check with your drill bit for the gap, then use a long fixing (a 60-75mm frame fixing or a proper dot-and-dab-rated hollow wall anchor) that passes through the void and grips the masonry behind. Drill the masonry with a 6mm masonry bit to the fixing maker's stated depth, and fit the plug before driving the screw home.

4 each · Long frame fixings (dot-and-dab rated), 60-75mm

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1 each · 6mm masonry drill bit

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SR-06Drilling and fixing — solid brick or block (no plasterboard)If your wall is solid brick or block with no plasterboard skin, drill with a 6mm masonry bit to a depth of at least 40mm. Fit a standard wall plug and drive in a 40mm screw. This is the simplest and strongest fixing for a light rack like this.

4 each · Wall plugs (red, 6mm)

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4 each · Wood screws, 40mm

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SR-07Drilling and fixing — plasterboard on timber studsIf your pilot hole gave timber dust, you've found a timber stud. Centre your fixing point on the stud and drive a wood screw, 40mm, straight into its centre — no plug is needed. If your mark lands between studs rather than on one, use a plasterboard toggle or hollow wall anchor rated for the rack's weight instead of relying on plasterboard alone.

4 each · Wood screws, 40mm

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4 each · Plasterboard toggle fixings

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SR-08Drilling and fixing — plasterboard on metal studsIf your pilot hole brought out fine metal swarf, you have a metal stud wall, common in flats and anything built or refitted since the 1990s. Never use a plain wall plug or an ordinary wood screw here — a wood screw strips straight through 0.5mm steel and won't hold. Use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle-type hollow wall anchor rated for the rack's weight, driven directly into the metal track. A spice rack is light enough for a good metal-stud fixing on its own; only heavier or overhanging loads need a timber noggin fitted between the studs.

4 each · Self-drilling metal-stud fixings

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SR-09Drilling and fixing — lath and plasterLath and plaster is fragile and cracks easily, so drill slowly and don't force the bit. Aim to land your screw in a wooden lath rather than bare plaster — you'll feel more resistance and the drilling will sound different once you hit timber. Use a screw long enough to bite at least 20mm into the lath, and if a hole feels loose or crumbly, move the fixing point slightly rather than fighting it.

4 each · Wood screws, 45mm

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SR-10Fit the rack and check it's levelDrive in your chosen fixings evenly, don't fully tighten one before starting the next. Hang or screw the rack into place, then lay your spirit level along the top to confirm it's still true. Adjust before the fixings are fully tight if it's out.

1 each · Screwdriver or drill driver

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SR-11Load test and tidy upAdd your spice jars gradually rather than all at once, and check the rack and fixings for any movement or give after a few minutes. Vacuum up any drilling dust and wipe the wall down. Bin offcuts and fixing packaging, and keep any spare fixings in case you need to adjust the rack later.

1 each · Vacuum cleaner

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