Put up shelving in a shed

Fix sturdy, level shelves in your shed using the right fixings for your wall, with a quick safety check first.

SH-01Plan the shelf and clear the spaceDecide on shelf height and length, leaving room to reach items above and space below for tools or the mower. Clear the floor and move anything stored against the wall out of the way. Check the wall for damp, rot or loose boards and fix any problems before fixing anything to it. Gather your tools: drill, spirit level, tape measure, pencil and a stud detector or strong magnet.

1 each · Spirit level

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1 each · Tape measure

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1 each · Stud detector or strong magnet

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SH-02Work out what your shed wall is made ofMost sheds are timber-framed, with feather-edge or shiplap boards fixed to vertical studs, usually 400mm to 600mm apart. Some sheds, especially older or brick-built ones, have solid brick or block walls. Tap the wall: a timber-framed wall sounds hollow between studs and solid at each one, while a brick or block shed sounds solid and dull all over. Run your magnet or detector along the wall to find the fixings holding the cladding, which mark the stud positions, or drill a small pilot hole and check what comes out — pale timber dust means a stud, brick or mortar dust means solid masonry. Plasterboard, metal studs, dot-and-dab and lath and plaster don't apply here — sheds aren't built this way, so you can skip those methods.

SH-03Check for cables and pipes before you drillIf your shed has mains power run to it for lighting or a socket, sweep a cable and pipe detector along the fixing line before drilling. Still expect a cable to be there and prove otherwise — detectors miss cables that are deep, run in metal conduit, or sit outside the usual routes, and any metal in the shed frame can confuse cheap detectors. Find your stopcock, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns freely so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe feeding an outside tap. If you have any doubt, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn off the water at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry it.

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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SH-04Mark the shelf height and level lineMark the height of the top shelf lightly in pencil at one end of the wall. Use a spirit level to draw a level line across to the other end. On a timber-framed shed, mark each stud centre along this line using what you found in step 2, since your brackets need to land on solid timber, not just cladding.

1 each · Pencil

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SH-05Cut the support battens or brackets to lengthIf you're using timber battens as continuous supports, cut two lengths of 44x33mm timber batten to the shelf length. If using L-brackets instead, space them every 400mm to 500mm, lining them up with stud positions where you can. Cut battens with a hand saw or jigsaw and check both ends are square.

2 length · 44x33mm timber batten

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4 each · Steel L-brackets

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SH-06Fix the battens or brackets to the wallFor a timber-framed shed wall, drive 4mm x 60mm wood screws into the centre of each marked stud, using at least two screws per fixing point. For a solid brick or block shed wall, drill with a 6mm masonry bit to a depth of 40mm, tap in a 6mm red wall plug, then drive a 5mm x 50mm screw — this holds well in solid masonry. Never use a plain wall plug in a timber stud, and never fix into the cladding alone; always reach the stud or the masonry behind it.

8 each · 4mm x 60mm wood screws

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8 each · 6mm red wall plugs

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8 each · 5mm x 50mm screws

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1 each · 6mm masonry drill bit

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SH-07Cut the shelf board to sizeMeasure the gap between the fixed supports and cut your shelf board to length. 18mm plywood or OSB is a good choice for shed shelving — it's strong and cheap. Sand any rough cut edges lightly so you don't catch your hands on splinters.

1 sheet · 18mm plywood or OSB board

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1 sheet · Sandpaper

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SH-08Fix the shelf board to the battens or bracketsRest the board on the battens or brackets and check it sits level with your spirit level. Screw down through the board into each support using 4mm x 40mm screws, at least two fixings per support point.

8 each · 4mm x 40mm screws

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SH-09Load test and check for wobblePush down firmly on each end and the middle of the shelf. If it flexes or a bracket moves, add another fixing or a support batten underneath. For heavy loads like paint tins, tools or bagged compost, space supports every 400mm rather than every 600mm.

SH-10Tidy upSweep up sawdust, screws and offcuts from the floor and bin any packaging. Wipe down the shelf and put your tools away. Load the shelf evenly once it's clean and clear.

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