Remove old bathroom accessories and fill the holes in tiles

Take down old bathroom fittings safely, work out what's behind the tile, then fill and smooth the holes for a neat finish.

RA-01Prepare the area and gather your toolsLay a towel or dust sheet in the bath or on the floor to catch screws and debris. Get a screwdriver set, small pliers, a craft knife, a plastic scraper, and eye protection together before you start. Working on a small task like this in one go stops you hunting for tools halfway through with a half-removed towel rail hanging off the wall.

1 each · Dust sheet or old towel

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1 each · Screwdriver set

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1 each · Safety glasses

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RA-02Check what's behind the wall before you touch a screwCables and pipes can run almost anywhere behind bathroom tiles, even where you wouldn't expect them, and a cheap detector can miss cables that are deep, boxed in metal, or behind metal-backed board. Find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut the water off fast if you nick a pipe. If a fixing is stuck and you think you'll need to drill it out, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit first if there's any chance of a cable, and turn off the water at the stopcock before cutting into anything near a bath or shower pipe run.

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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RA-03Work out what's behind the tileTap gently around the old fixing points: a dull, hollow sound over a wide area means plasterboard on a stud wall, while a solid dead thud means brick, block, or dot-and-dab plasterboard on masonry. Run a stud detector or a strong magnet over the area in a grid; the magnet will pull towards the screws holding the studs and show you their line. If you have to drill out a stuck plug, pale wood dust from a small pilot hole means a timber stud, while fine grey swarf means a metal stud instead.

1 each · Small fridge magnet or magnetic stud finder

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RA-04Remove the old accessoryUndo the screws holding the rail, holder or dish, and support it with your other hand as the last screw comes out so it doesn't drop and crack the tile. If it's also stuck with silicone or grout, run a craft knife around the edge first to break the seal. Ease it off with a plastic scraper rather than a metal chisel, which will chip the glaze.

1 each · Craft knife

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1 each · Plastic scraper

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RA-05Deal with stuck screws and old wall plugsIf a screw won't turn, apply a little penetrating oil, leave it for a few minutes, then try again. If a plastic wall plug spins uselessly in the hole, tap it flush with a screwdriver and small hammer rather than levering against the tile, then pick out the pieces with fine pliers. Wear eye protection, as plug fragments and grout dust can flick out unexpectedly.

1 can · Penetrating oil spray

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1 each · Fine pliers

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RA-06Clean and prepare the holesVacuum out dust and old plug fragments from each hole. Wipe around it with methylated spirit to remove soap scum and silicone residue, so the filler bonds properly. If the tile glaze is very glossy right at the hole edge, key it lightly with fine sandpaper.

1 bottle (250ml) · Methylated spirit

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1 sheet · Fine sandpaper (240 grit)

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RA-07Fill the holes — the method depends on what's behind the tileOn solid brick, block, or dot-and-dab plasterboard, the hole has a solid backing, so push a two-part epoxy tile filler straight in with a filling knife, slightly overfilled. On lath and plaster, the hole is often deeper and hollow behind the lath, so pack a small twist of wire wool or newspaper a few mm in first to stop filler dropping through, then fill the last few mm with epoxy filler. On plasterboard over timber or metal studs, the cavity behind is hollow too, so use the same wire wool or a tiny offcut of card as backing before filling flush with the tile face.

1 tube · Two-part epoxy tile filler

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1 each · Small filling knife

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1 pack · Wire wool

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RA-08Smooth and level the fillerWhile the filler is still workable, drag a plastic scraper or an old bank card across it, level with the tile surface, in one smooth pass. Wipe away any excess with a damp cloth straight away, before it cures, so it doesn't leave a haze on the surrounding tile.

1 each · Damp cloth

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RA-09Sand, touch up and tidy upOnce the filler has fully cured, check the pack for timing, then lightly sand it flush with fine wet-and-dry paper and wipe clean. If the tile is a plain colour, dab on a little tile touch-up paint to disguise the patch, or leave it ready for a new fitting to cover it. Bin the old screws and fittings, wipe down the bath or basin, and remove your dust sheet.

1 sheet · Wet-and-dry sandpaper

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1 small pot · Tile touch-up paint

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PART OF A BIGGER PROJECT

Refresh a bathroom without replacing the suite

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