WALLS & STRUCTURE

Repair a damaged plaster corner

Repair a damaged plaster corner by removing loose material, fitting a new corner bead if needed, then filling, sanding and priming.

PC-01Assess the damage and check the wall typeLook at how much plaster or bead is loose, then gently press or peel back anything that moves — remove it now rather than later. Tap either side of the corner: solid brick or block sounds dull and firm, a stud wall sounds hollow. If it's a stud wall, run a magnet or stud detector down each face near the corner to find the timber or metal upright, or look for a line of screw heads under the plasterboard. Knowing this now tells you which fixing to use if you need to screw a new corner bead in place later.
1 each · Stud and cable detector
PC-02Protect the area and gather your toolsLay dust sheets on the floor and cover any nearby furniture — plaster dust travels further than you'd think. Get your filling knife, small trowel, dust mask and goggles ready, plus a bucket of clean water. Turn off any fan or heater in the room so it doesn't blow dust around while you work.
1 each · Dust sheet
1 pack · Disposable dust mask (pack of 10)
1 each · Safety goggles
PC-03Remove damaged plaster back to sound materialUse a filling knife or scraper to chip away crumbling plaster until you reach something firmly stuck. On dot-and-dab walls, press gently first — hitting the board hard can crack the adhesive dabs behind it and loosen a much bigger area than the visible damage. On a lath-and-plaster corner, work slowly; the old lime plaster keys into timber laths behind it and can come away in large chunks if you lever too hard.
1 each · Filling knife
1 each · Bucket for water
PC-04Fit a new corner bead if the edge itself is brokenBefore drilling or screwing anywhere near the corner, use a cable and pipe detector to check the area — but don't rely on it fully. Detectors can miss deep cables, cables in metal conduit, or anything behind metal-backed board, and a metal stud frame can confuse a cheap detector further. Find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns before you start, so you can shut off the water fast if you hit a pipe. If in doubt, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit first, and turn off the water at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry a pipe. If the sharp edge (arris) of the corner is broken away, cut a new PVC or galvanised corner bead to length with tin snips. On solid brick or block, bed it into a layer of filler or bonding plaster — no screws needed. On a timber stud wall, fix it with 30mm wood screws into the centre of the stud each side. On a metal stud wall, use self-drilling metal-stud screws, never plain wood screws — they just spin and strip straight through 0.5mm steel. On dot-and-dab, press the bead into a bed of filler rather than screwing, since a missed dab gives a screw nothing solid to grip.
1 length · PVC corner bead, 2.4m length
1 box · Wood screws, 30mm (box of 100)
1 box · Self-drilling metal-stud screws (box of 50)
1 tub · Bonding plaster or all-purpose filler, 2.5kg
PC-05Dampen the area and apply the base coatLightly mist the exposed brick, block or old plaster edges with water from a spray bottle — this stops the new filler drying too fast and cracking as it sets. Apply an even base coat of multi-finish plaster or ready-mixed filler with a trowel, building it up to just below the final surface level, roughly 2-3mm short of flush. Use a straight edge or the flat of the trowel to true up the corner line as you go.
1 bag · Multi-finish plaster or ready-mixed filler, 5kg
1 each · Plasterer's trowel
PC-06Let the base coat firm up, then apply a second coatLeave the base coat to firm for the time stated on the packet — often 30-60 minutes for plaster, longer for ready-mixed filler. Apply a thin second coat over the top, feathering it out onto the surrounding wall so there's no ridge. Run a corner trowel or the edge of a filling knife along the arris as you finish, to keep the line sharp and straight.
1 each · Corner trowel (internal/external)
PC-07Sand the repair smoothOnce fully dry — check the product guidance, this can take several hours — sand lightly with 120-grit paper, then finish with 180-grit for a smooth surface. Sand along the direction of the corner, not across it, or you'll round off the sharp edge. Wipe away dust with a slightly damp sponge and check the repair by feel before moving on.
1 sheet · Sandpaper, 120 grit
1 sheet · Sandpaper, 180 grit
1 each · Sanding sponge
PC-08Prime the repair before paintingNew plaster and filler are porous and will soak up paint unevenly if left bare. Apply a mist coat — white emulsion diluted to roughly 70% paint and 30% water — or a proprietary plaster primer, and let it dry fully before decorating. Small filler-only patches may just need a coat of ordinary primer instead.
1 tin · White emulsion or plaster primer, 2.5L
PC-09Clean up and check the repairWipe tools clean with water while filler is still wet on them — dried plaster is much harder to shift. Sweep or vacuum dust from the floor and skirting, then run your hand along the corner to check it's straight and smooth. Once painted, the repair should be invisible.

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