Remove polystyrene ceiling tiles

Take down polystyrene ceiling tiles safely, checking for asbestos risk and refixing loose plasterboard or lath before filling and repainting.

AB-01Clear the room and check the ceiling typeMove furniture out or into the middle of the room and cover everything with dust sheets, including the floor. Work out what's under the tiles: tap the ceiling and listen - a dull thud usually means plasterboard or lath and plaster, a hard knock means solid concrete. Houses built before the 1930s often have lath and plaster; most others have plasterboard, sometimes with a skim of plaster on top.

RULES

1 pack · Dust sheets (pack of 2)

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KNOW THE RULES

Building Regulations Approved Document B rates wall and ceiling linings for fire spread. Polystyrene tiles perform very poorly and shouldn't be used as a ceiling lining - this is one of the main reasons to remove them.

AB-02Check for asbestos before you disturb old coatingsIf there's a textured coating like Artex under or around the tiles, and the house was decorated before 2000, don't scrape or sand it yet. Get a sample tested by a UKAS-accredited lab, or treat it as asbestos-containing and get advice from a licensed contractor. If it's plain plasterboard, paint or plaster with no textured finish, you can skip this step.

RULES

1 each · Asbestos test kit (send-off sample)

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KNOW THE RULES

Control of Asbestos Regulations 2012: textured coatings such as Artex applied before 2000 may contain asbestos. Get it tested before sanding or scraping if there's any doubt.

AB-03Turn off the power and find your stopcockCables can run almost anywhere in the void above the ceiling, not just in neat lines - this matters most near light fittings. If tiles butt up against a rose or fitting, isolate that lighting circuit at the consumer unit before you touch it. Also find your stopcock now, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns - useful if there are pipes above (say, a bathroom upstairs) and you hit one later.

1 each · Combined cable and pipe detector

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AB-04Take down the tilesWork from one corner with a wide filling knife or scraper, easing each tile away from its adhesive dots. Wear a dust mask and eye protection - polystyrene sheds fine dust and breaks into sharp-edged pieces. If tiles were nailed rather than glued, ease out each nail with pliers as you go rather than leaving nails stuck in the ceiling. Bag tiles as you remove them; breaking them up over a bin bag saves space.

1 each · Filling knife or scraper, 100mm

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1 pack · Dust masks (pack)

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1 each · Safety goggles

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1 pack · Heavy-duty bin bags

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AB-05Scrape off the old adhesive - the method depends on what's underneathOn a solid concrete or masonry soffit, scrape off dried adhesive with a wide scraper; a damp, not soaking, sponge softens stubborn patches. On plasterboard, scrape gently and keep water away - soaking the paper face or joint tape weakens it and can bring the board down. On lath and plaster, scrape dry only, work in small areas, and support the section with your free hand or a prop board as you go, because old lime plaster can be looser than it looks.

1 each · Small sponge

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AB-06Check for loose plasterboard or lath, and identify what's behind itPush gently on any section that sounds hollow or has dropped. Before drilling anything into the ceiling, remember cables and pipes can run anywhere in the void above, not just in obvious lines - a detector helps but misses cables in conduit or behind metal-backed board, so still isolate the lighting circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and keep the stopcock in mind if you hit a pipe. To check whether the joists or furring channels behind are timber or metal, run a strong magnet along the ceiling or use a stud detector, tracking the line of existing fixing heads. A small pilot hole into the frame brings out pale timber dust if it's wood, or fine grey swarf if it's steel.

1 set · Pilot drill bit set

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AB-07Re-fix loose plasterboard or lath the right way for what's behind itInto a timber joist, use a drywall screw such as 3.5 x 40mm driven into the centre of the joist - never into the gap between joists. Into a metal furring channel, use self-drilling metal-stud screws made for 0.5mm steel; a plain wood screw or plastic wall plug just spins and strips the metal, it won't hold. If the board has dropped with nothing solid directly behind, use plasterboard repair washers either side of the joist gap to spread the load, screwing back into the joists themselves rather than the sagging board alone. Lath and plaster that's cracked or bowing more than a few millimetres is a job for a plasterer - screwing it back rarely holds, and a section coming down can be heavy enough to hurt someone.

1 box · Drywall screws, 3.5 x 40mm (box)

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1 box · Self-drilling metal-stud screws (box)

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1 pack · Plasterboard repair washers (pack of 10)

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AB-08Fill, sand and clean upFill old nail holes and adhesive marks with ready-mixed filler, let it dry, then sand smooth. Vacuum the floor and skirting - polystyrene dust is static and clings to everything, so a quick sweep won't shift it. Bag the tiles and rubble for the tip or a council collection; large volumes of polystyrene often aren't accepted in a normal bin, so check your council's rules first. Give the bare ceiling a mist coat of watered-down emulsion before your final paint if you've filled more than a few small holes.

1 tub · Ready-mixed filler, 1kg

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1 pack · Sandpaper, medium grit (pack)

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1 each · Emulsion paint, 2.5L (for mist coat)

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