Replace a damaged section of skirting

Remove a damaged length of skirting, fit a matching replacement, and finish it so it blends in seamlessly.

SK-01Clear the area and set upMove furniture away from the wall and lay a dust sheet along the skirting line. Take down nearby curtains or roll back rugs so dust and paint don't ruin them. Measure the height and depth of the existing skirting so you can match the profile when buying a new length. Keep a torch handy, since skirting work often means peering into dim corners.

1 each · Dust sheet

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1 each · Tape measure

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1 each · Torch

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SK-02Work out what's behind the wallTap along the skirting line: a dull, solid sound usually means brick or block, while a hollow sound suggests a stud wall or dot-and-dab plasterboard. Run a magnet or stud detector along the wall - a line of fixings roughly 400-600mm apart usually marks timber studs, and closer, evenly spaced fixings often mean metal studs. Drill a small 3mm test hole in an inconspicuous spot: fine wood dust means timber, grey powder means masonry or dot-and-dab, and bright metal swarf means a metal stud. Lath and plaster walls feel slightly springy and give a lower, softer knock, with narrow wooden laths under the plaster.

1 each · Stud detector or magnet

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SK-03Check for cables and pipes before you cutCables and pipes can run anywhere behind skirting, especially near sockets or where wiring drops down to floor level. Use a cable and pipe detector along the whole area, but still assume something could be hidden - detectors miss cables in metal conduit, behind metal-backed board, or outside the normal safe zones, and a metal stud frame throws off cheap detectors even more. Find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely before you start, so you can shut off the water fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling or cutting near it, and turn off the water at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry it.

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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SK-04Remove the damaged sectionScore along the top edge of the skirting with a utility knife to break the paint or caulk seal to the wall. Push a wide bolster chisel or thin pry bar behind the board near one end and lever gently in stages, rather than one hard pull. Slip a thin wood offcut behind the bar to protect the plaster as you lever. If the damage is in the middle of a run, cut the section out with a fine-tooth saw at 45° angles either side, so the new piece can scarf in neatly.

1 each · Pry bar or bolster chisel

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1 each · Utility knife

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1 each · Fine-tooth saw

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1 each · Wood offcut (packer)

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SK-05Measure and cut the replacement pieceMeasure the gap left by the removed section, adding a few mm for scribing to any uneven wall. Mark the new skirting board and cut it to length, mitring or scarfing the ends to match the existing joints. Test-fit the piece dry before fixing it, and trim again if it's tight anywhere.

1 each · Replacement skirting board (2.4m length)

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1 each · Mitre block and tenon saw

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1 each · Pencil

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SK-06Fix the new section to the wallSolid brick or block: drill 6mm holes at 400mm centres to 45mm deep, fit red wall plugs, and drive 50mm woodscrews. Timber stud wall: screw straight into the centre of each stud with a 40mm woodscrew, confirmed by your earlier pilot-hole test. Metal stud wall: never use a wall plug or wood screw, as they strip straight through 0.5mm steel - use self-drilling metal-stud screws or snap toggles, and fit a timber noggin between the studs first if the skirting will carry any real pulling force. Dot-and-dab plasterboard: use fixings 60-75mm long so they pass through the board and dabs and grip the masonry behind; lath and plaster: fix into a solid batten or lath where you find one, or use a plasterboard toggle rated for the board's condition, since old lath crumbles easily.

1 box · Wood screws 40mm (box)

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1 box · Wood screws 50mm (box)

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1 pack · Red wall plugs 6mm (pack)

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1 pack · Self-drilling metal-stud screws (pack)

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1 pack · Snap toggle fixings (pack of 4)

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1 each · Timber noggin offcut

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1 each · Masonry drill bit 6mm

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1 tube · Grab adhesive (gripfill)

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SK-07Fill holes and jointsPunch any visible screw heads slightly below the surface and fill over them with wood filler. Run a thin bead of decorators' caulk along the top edge where the skirting meets the wall, and along the mitre or scarf joints, then smooth it with a wet finger. Wipe away excess caulk before it skins over.

1 tub · Wood filler

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1 tube · Decorators caulk

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1 each · Filling knife

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SK-08Sand, prime and paintOnce the filler and caulk are fully dry, sand lightly with fine abrasive paper to level everything off. Wipe away dust with a damp cloth, then apply a coat of primer or undercoat to the new wood and any filled areas. Finish with a top coat matching the colour and sheen of the rest of the skirting, and apply a second coat once the first is dry.

1 pack · Fine sandpaper (120-180 grit)

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1 tin · Primer/undercoat

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1 tin · Matching topcoat paint

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1 each · Paintbrush

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SK-09Tidy upRemove the dust sheet carefully, folding it inward to keep dust off the floor. Vacuum along the skirting line and check the new section is firmly fixed with no movement. Dispose of the old damaged skirting and offcuts, and clean your tools before storing them.

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