Stick a bathroom mirror to the wall with mirror adhesive

Prepare the wall properly, apply mirror adhesive correctly, then support the mirror while it cures in place.

AB-01Check the mirror is suitable for adhesive fixingWeigh or estimate the mirror's weight and check the adhesive tube for its maximum load per square metre — most mirror adhesives are only rated for lightweight mirrors, often under 20kg/m². If the mirror is large, heavy, or frameless with sharp edges, plan to add mechanical mirror clips or a bottom support strip as well as adhesive. Decide on the mounting height now and mark it lightly in pencil.

1 each · Pencil

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1 each · Spirit level (600mm)

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AB-02Work out your wall type and prepare the surfaceSolid brick or block behind plaster gives the strongest bond — check the plaster is sound by tapping for a solid, not hollow, sound. Plasterboard on timber or metal studs bonds only to the paper face of the board, so keep the mirror light or add a mechanical fixing for anything heavier. Dot-and-dab plasterboard has an air gap behind it and the weakest bond of all, so treat it as light-duty only unless you fix through to the masonry. Lath and plaster can be crumbly with age — press firmly on a hidden patch first, and if it feels soft or bouncy, don't rely on adhesive alone.

1 sheet · Fine sandpaper (120 grit)

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1 250ml · Methylated spirits

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1 each · Clean cloth

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AB-03Clean and key the surfaceWipe painted or plastered walls with methylated spirits to remove grease, soap film and dust, then let it dry fully. On tiles, degrease thoroughly, as tile glaze is otherwise too smooth for a good bond. If the wall has gloss paint, lightly sand the area with fine sandpaper to give the adhesive something to grip.

1 each · Dust sheet

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AB-04Mark the position and mask upUse the spirit level to draw a level line for the mirror's top or bottom edge. Apply masking tape just outside the mirror's footprint on the wall to catch any adhesive squeeze-out, and tape around the mirror's edge on the front face to protect it. Lay a dust sheet below to catch drips, especially near a sink or bath.

1 roll · Masking tape (50mm)

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AB-05Apply the adhesiveLoad a purpose-made mirror adhesive into the gun — never use a plain silicone sealant, as some can craze the silvered backing of a mirror. Apply vertical beads roughly 250mm apart, keeping them away from the very edges so the mirror can move slightly as the glass expands and contracts. On tiles or masonry, slightly thicker beads help bridge any unevenness; on plasterboard, keep beads modest so you don't overload the board's paper face.

1 tube 290ml · Mirror adhesive (mastic tube)

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1 each · Skeleton adhesive gun

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AB-06Position, level and support the mirror while it curesPress the mirror firmly and evenly into place, checking it's level, then hold it for the time stated on the adhesive tube — usually a minute or two of firm pressure. Rest the bottom edge on a temporary wooden batten or blocks placed on the floor, sill or skirting to take the weight while the adhesive cures; do not rely on the adhesive alone in the first 24 hours. Leave the masking tape strips in place as extra support if the tube recommends it.

1 length 600mm · Timber batten (for temporary support)

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AB-07Leave to cure and avoid moistureLeave the mirror undisturbed for the full curing time on the adhesive packaging, typically 24 to 48 hours. Keep the bathroom ventilated but avoid running the shower or bath in that time, since steam and splashing can weaken the bond before it's fully cured. Don't lean on the mirror or clean it during this period.

AB-08Finish and tidy upOnce cured, remove the masking tape and support batten carefully, pulling tape away slowly so it doesn't lift any paint. Wipe off any dried adhesive squeeze-out with a cloth, using a plastic scraper if needed rather than anything metal that could scratch the mirror. Gently press the mirror to check it's fully secure, then dispose of the empty adhesive tube and packaging.

1 each · Plastic scraper

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