FURNITURE & FLATPACK

Assemble a flatpack wardrobe

Assemble a flatpack wardrobe safely, working through the panels in order, then fix the anti-tip strap correctly for your wall type.

WD-01Clear the space and unpack everythingChoose a large flat area near where the wardrobe will stand, and lay down a dust sheet or old blanket to protect the flooring. Unpack all the panels and hardware, and lean panels against a wall rather than stacking them flat to avoid scratches.
1 each · Dust sheet or old blanket
WD-02Check parts against the list and read the instructionsCount every panel, dowel, cam lock, hinge and screw against the parts list before you start. Read the whole instruction booklet once so you know the build order — flatpack wardrobes are hard to fix once several panels are joined.
WD-03Build the base and side panelsLay the base panel flat, tap the wooden dowels into their pre-drilled holes, then slide the side panels onto the dowels. Insert and tighten every cam lock fully with the hex key or screwdriver supplied — a half-turned cam lock will work loose later.
1 each · PVA wood glue (for dowel joints, optional)
WD-04Fit the back panel and check it's squareBefore fixing the back panel, measure both diagonals of the carcass corner to corner — if they match, it's square. Slot the thin hardboard or MDF back into the grooves and secure it with the panel pins provided, tapping gently with a hammer.
1 each · Hammer
WD-05Fit shelves, hanging rail and drawer runnersFix shelf support pegs, the hanging rail bracket and any drawer runners using the pre-drilled pilot holes and screws provided. Follow the diagram closely — these parts are much easier to fit while the carcass is still lying flat.
WD-06Stand the carcass upright and fit the top panelGet a second person to help lift the carcass upright — most wardrobes are too tall and awkward for one person to stand safely alone. Fit the top panel with dowels and cam locks the same way as the base, then check the whole unit stands level.
1 each · Spirit level (600mm)
WD-07Hang the doors and adjust the hingesHang each door on its hinges and hand-tighten the screws first. Use the hinge adjustment screws to line up the gaps evenly top and bottom before fully tightening. For sliding doors, fit the top and bottom tracks first, then lift the doors onto the rollers.
WD-08Work out what your wall is made of before you drillEvery flatpack wardrobe should be fixed to the wall with the anti-tip strap supplied, so it can't topple forward if someone climbs the drawers or leans on an open door. Solid brick or block feels hard and sounds dull when tapped everywhere. A stud wall sounds hollow between the studs and solid over them — use a stud detector or run a magnet across the wall to find the screw heads that mark the centre of a timber stud. A small pilot hole in a timber stud brings out pale wood dust; the same hole in a metal stud brings out fine grey metal swarf. Dot-and-dab plasterboard sounds hollow almost everywhere except over the dabs, and lath and plaster gives a springy, uneven sound with narrow timber laths underneath.
1 each · Stud detector
1 each · Small magnet
WD-09Drill and fit the anti-tip strap for your wall typeCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a wall, not just in the usual safe zones, and a metal stud frame can confuse a cheap detector. Before you drill, find your stopcock — usually under the kitchen sink — and check it turns, so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you're in any doubt, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit first, and still treat every wall as if something is hiding behind it, even after checking with a detector. For solid brick or block, drill a 6mm hole to 40mm depth, fit a wall plug, and drive in the screw provided. For a timber stud, drill a pilot hole into the centre of the stud and drive a 4mm x 40mm wood screw straight in — no plug needed. For a metal stud, use a self-drilling metal-stud anchor or a spring toggle rated for the wall — never a wood screw or plastic plug, which strip straight through 0.5mm steel. For dot-and-dab, use a long fixing (at least 75mm) that passes through the board and airgap to bite into the masonry behind, such as a frame fixing. For lath and plaster, aim for a timber lath or use a plasterboard toggle that spreads the load, since old plaster is brittle and cracks under a point load. A metal-stud fixing like this holds the light pull of an anti-tip strap fine, but won't hold anything heavy or anything that pulls away from the wall in use — those need a timber noggin or a fixing through to the masonry behind.
1 each · Cable and pipe detector
1 each · Masonry drill bit, 6mm
1 pack of 10 · Red wall plugs, 6mm
1 pack of 20 · Wood screws, No.8 x 50mm
1 pack of 20 · Wood screws, 4mm x 40mm
1 pack of 4 · Self-drilling metal stud anchors
1 pack of 2 · Spring toggle fixings
1 pack of 4 · Frame fixings, 7.5mm x 100mm
WD-10Final check and tidy upOpen and close every door and drawer to check they run smoothly, and give the top of the wardrobe a firm push to check the anti-tip strap is holding. Adjust any levelling feet so the unit doesn't rock, then flatten the packaging for recycling and vacuum up any dust or offcuts.

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