Assemble flatpack furniture without the frustration

Assemble flatpack furniture in the right order, then anchor tall pieces safely to whatever wall you actually have.

FP-01Unpack and check every part before you startLay all panels flat and count screws, dowels, cam locks and hinges against the parts list in the manual. Check panels for cracks, chips or drilled holes in the wrong place. It's much easier to get a replacement part now than after you've built half the unit.

FP-02Set up a clear, protected workspaceClear a flat area bigger than the largest panel, ideally on carpet or an old blanket to stop scratches and dampen noise. Keep the box lid handy as a small-parts tray so screws don't roll away. Get your tools out: the supplied hex key, a No.2 crosshead screwdriver, and a rubber mallet if the kit needs dowels tapped home.

1 each · Old blanket or dust sheet

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · Rubber mallet

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

FP-03Build the main carcass firstJoin the large side, top and base panels first, using cam locks and dowels as shown in the manual. Only push cam locks half-tight to start — this lets you nudge panels square before final tightening. Stand the carcass up as soon as it's rigid enough, since it's far easier to fit doors and drawers upright.

FP-04Fit shelves, drawers and doorsSlot in fixed shelves and drawer runners before hanging doors, as they're easier to reach with the front open. Hang doors on their hinges and check they close flush before fitting handles. Most hinges have a small adjustment screw for left-right and up-down alignment — use it now rather than fighting a wonky door later.

FP-05Tighten everything and level the unitGo over every cam lock, screw and dowel joint and tighten fully — flatpack furniture loosens with handling, so this pass matters. Fit adjustable feet if supplied and use a spirit level to check the top is level side to side. Rock the unit gently to check for wobble before moving it into position.

FP-06Secure tall or top-heavy units to the wallWardrobes, tall bookcases and chests of drawers can tip forward, especially with children around, so fit the anti-tip strap or bracket now even if it feels optional. Before drilling, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns — and if there's any doubt about what's behind the wall, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit and turn the water off at the stopcock first. Use a cable and pipe detector along the fixing line, but still treat the wall as if something's there: detectors miss deep cables, cables in metal conduit, and anything behind metal-backed plasterboard.

1 each · Anti-tip strap or bracket kit

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

FP-07Choose the right fixing for your wall typeWork out what's behind the plasterboard first: run a magnet or stud detector along the fixing line to find screw heads, tap for a hollow sound between studs, and drill a small pilot hole — fine pale dust means timber, grey metal swarf means a metal stud. For solid brick or block, drill an 8mm hole 45mm deep and fit a red wall plug with a 50mm screw. For a timber stud, use a 50mm wood screw driven into the centre of the stud, never the edge. For a metal stud, use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor rated for the strap's pull force — never a plastic wall plug or plain wood screw, which strip straight through 0.5mm steel. For dot-and-dab plasterboard, use a long fixing (typically 75-100mm) that passes through the plaster dabs and bites into the solid masonry behind. For lath and plaster, either locate a timber stud behind the laths or use a toggle fixing that spans across the laths rather than just gripping plaster.

4 each · Red wall plugs (masonry)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

4 each · 50mm wood screws

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

4 each · Self-drilling metal-stud fixings

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

4 each · Toggle-type hollow-wall anchors

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

4 each · Long dot-and-dab fixings (75-100mm)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

FP-08Know what a metal stud won't holdA metal stud fixing will hold light, flat-against-the-wall items like an anti-tip strap, but it will not safely hold anything heavy or anything that pulls away from the wall, such as a long TV arm, a pull-up bar or a wall-hung basin. For those, you need a timber noggin or pattress fitted between the studs, or a fixing that goes right through to the masonry behind. If you're not sure which category your item falls into, treat it as heavy and fix accordingly.

FP-09Tidy up and do a final checkFlatten cardboard and separate plastic packaging for recycling. Sweep up any offcuts, dust or swarf from drilling. Keep any spare screws, cam locks or dowels in a labelled bag taped inside a drawer, in case you need to tighten something later. Give the finished piece a final wobble test and check the wall fixing is holding firm.

1 each · Small resealable bag for spare fixings

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

Some links may earn us a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Save this as a project

Back to all guides