Build alcove shelves and cupboards

Turn an alcove into shelves and a cupboard with a door, working in stages across two or three weekends.

Guides in this project

01How to tell what your wall is made of 02Using a detector before you drill 03Plan shelf spacing in an alcove 04Fit batten-supported alcove shelves 05Hang a cupboard door on butt hinges 06Paint MDF

AB-01Plan the alcove and buy everything up frontFollow 'How to tell what your wall is made of' to check whether the alcove sides are masonry, stud or something hollow and awkward - this decides which fixings you need later. Follow 'Plan shelf spacing in an alcove' to settle on shelf heights, depth and whether you want a cupboard with a door underneath the bottom shelf. Measure the alcove width, height and depth at the top, middle and bottom; old walls are rarely square, so use the smallest width and depth as your working size. Buy all your timber, MDF, fixings and paint in one trip; budget roughly £150-£400 and 2-3 weekends for the whole project, depending on size, finish and whether you need an electrician.

1 each · Tape measure

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1 each · Pencil and notebook

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AB-02Check the wall before you drill anythingFollow 'Using a detector before you drill' on every spot you plan to fix into, on both alcove side walls, even if you think you know what's behind them. Treat the detector as a guide, not a guarantee - go slowly with the first few millimetres of any hole and stop if you feel resistance or see dust that looks wrong. If there's a socket or switch inside or right next to the alcove, switch off the circuit at the consumer unit and prove it's dead with a tester before you loosen the faceplate for any reason. This phase takes half an hour, but skipping it is the single biggest cause of expensive accidents in this job.

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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1 each · Voltage tester

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AB-03Fit the alcove shelvesFollow 'Fit batten-supported alcove shelves' to fix the support battens into both side walls and the back wall, using the fixings suited to the wall type you identified earlier. Cut and fit the shelf boards on top once the battens are solid and level. This phase usually takes a full day including letting any adhesive cure; rushing the battens before glue sets is the most common reason shelves wobble later. Check every shelf with a spirit level before you move on, because a lean here will show up badly once the cupboard and door go in underneath.

4 each · Timber batten 32x25mm, 2.4m

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1 pack · Rawlplugs and screws, pack

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3 each · MDF shelf board, 18mm, cut to size

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1 each · Wood glue

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AB-04Build and fit the cupboard carcassBuild a simple MDF box - two sides, a base and a back - sized to sit under the bottom shelf, using the same batten-fixing approach from 'Fit batten-supported alcove shelves' to hang the carcass securely on the side walls. Glue and screw the joints square before you offer the carcass up, then check it with a spirit level once it's fixed. If there's a socket inside the cupboard that needs moving, or you want a new one adding for a light, get a registered electrician in for the first fix before you close the carcass up. Allow a full day for the carcass, plus however long it takes to get an electrician booked if you need one.

RULES

2 each · MDF sheet, 18mm, 2440x1220

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1 pack · Corner brackets and screws

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1 each · PVA wood glue

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KNOW THE RULES

Moving sockets or adding circuits can be notifiable work under Building Regulations, especially a new circuit or work in a bathroom. Always use a registered electrician, who can certify the work.

AB-05Hang the cupboard doorFollow 'Hang a cupboard door on butt hinges' to fit the door to the carcass. It's easier to mark and cut the hinge recesses with the door off the carcass, so do that first, then offer it up and check it swings freely and sits flush before fitting the handle. This phase takes about half a day, most of it spent getting the hinge recesses even on both sides. Leave the final paint finish until the next phase - wet paint gums up hinges and makes the door catch.

1 each · MDF door blank, cut to size

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1 pack · Butt hinges, pair

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1 each · Door handle or knob

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1 pack · Screws, pack

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AB-06Fill, sand and paint the MDFFollow 'Paint MDF' to seal cut edges, fill screw holes and joints, and build up primer and topcoat on the shelves, carcass and door. Take the door off its hinges to paint it flat if you can - it dries faster and runs less. Allow 2-3 days for this phase, because MDF needs more coats than plasterboard to look good, and each coat needs time to dry between sanding. Rehang the door once the final coat is fully hard, not just dry to the touch, or you'll mark the paint.

1 each · MDF primer/sealer, 2.5L

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1 each · Undercoat, 2.5L

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1 each · Satin or eggshell topcoat, 2.5L

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1 each · Fine surface filler

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1 pack · Sandpaper, assorted grades

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1 pack · Brush and roller set

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