Fix a laminate floor that's lifting or peaking

Find out why your laminate is lifting or peaking, then fix the gap, board or joint causing it.

LF-01Work out why the floor is lifting or peakingA ridge along one joint (peaking) almost always means there's no expansion gap at the wall, or a spill has made the boards swell. A board that's popped up and stayed proud usually means its locking joint has come apart, often from someone walking on it while it was still swollen. Check the run nearest an external wall, a radiator or a window first, these move most with heat and damp. Press the ridge down: if it springs back, it's compression from moisture or a tight gap; if it stays up, the joint has failed.

LF-02Clear the area and check the expansion gapMove any furniture off the affected boards. Gently prise off the scotia or quarter-round beading along the nearest wall with a filler knife, it's usually pinned to the skirting board, not glued to the floor. Look at the gap between the laminate edge and the wall, it should be an even 10mm all the way round, hidden under the beading. If it's tight, missing in places, or full of debris, that's your likely cause.

1 each · Filler knife

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LF-03Widen the expansion gap if it's too tightIf the gap is under 10mm, or missing, the floor has nowhere to go and peaks at the nearest seam. Trim a sliver off the board edge nearest the wall with a hand saw or jigsaw, cutting shallow and only through the thickness of the board, aiming for 10-12mm all round. Sockets often have cables dropping down inside the wall close to floor level, and underfloor pipework can run near the wall run too, so run a cable and pipe detector over the wall and floor edge before you cut, and still cut carefully rather than trusting the detector completely. If in any doubt, isolate the nearby socket circuit at the consumer unit before cutting, and know where your stopcock is (usually under the kitchen sink) so you can shut the water off fast if you catch a pipe.

1 each · Jigsaw or fine-tooth hand saw

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1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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LF-04Lift and check the boards if a joint has failedIf a board is tented rather than just peaking at the seam, its click joint has likely come apart. Starting from the nearest wall, lift the beading and unclip the boards row by row back to the damaged one, using a tapping block and mallet so you don't force or crack the joints. Check the underlay underneath for bunching, grit or a damp patch, any of these can push a board up.

1 each · Laminate tapping block

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1 each · Rubber mallet

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LF-05Replace a damaged board if neededIf the board itself is swollen, cracked or the joint has snapped, swap it for a spare from the same batch. Slot the new board in at the same angle the original was laid, click it down, then re-lock the rows you lifted in order back towards the wall. If you've no spare boards, keep the damaged one aside as a template for buying a close match.

1 each · Replacement laminate board (matching pack)

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LF-06Rule out a hidden leak if the cause is unclearIf the swelling is localised and not near a wall, window or radiator, a leak underneath could be the real cause, check under any nearby sink, washing machine or dishwasher pipework. If you find damp underlay or a wet subfloor, turn the water off at the stopcock before you investigate further, and let the area dry out fully with a dehumidifier before relaying anything.

1 day · Dehumidifier hire (per day)

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LF-07Leave the floor to settleOnce the gap is corrected or the board replaced, leave the floor alone for 24 hours before refitting the beading. This gives any remaining moisture in the boards time to even out and the ridge to drop back down fully.

LF-08Refit the beadingReposition the scotia or quarter-round beading over the expansion gap and pin it to the skirting board with 15mm panel pins, never into the laminate itself or the floor underneath. This lets the boards keep moving with the seasons without the beading holding them still.

1 pack · 15mm panel pins

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LF-09Tidy up and check the fixVacuum any sawdust or debris from along the wall edge. Walk over the repaired area and check the ridge or lift is gone. Move the furniture back, using felt pads under the legs so nothing presses hard against the floor near the wall.

1 pack · Felt furniture pads (pack)

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