Replace a damaged laminate board in the middle of a floor

Cut out and replace one damaged laminate board without lifting the whole floor, gluing the new piece firmly into place.

LF-01Buy a matching replacement boardTake a photo of the damaged board and, if you can, a spare board from a cupboard or leftover box to match colour and pattern exactly. Laminate ranges change over time, so check the locking profile matches too. Buy at least one spare in case the first cut goes wrong.

2 each · Replacement laminate board (matching)

Buy:B&QAmazon

LF-02Clear and protect the work areaMove furniture and rugs away from the damaged board so you have at least 500mm clear space all round to work. Lay a dust sheet either side of the board to catch glue and offcuts. Have good light on the area so you can see the cut lines clearly.

1 each · Dust sheet

Buy:Tooled UpB&QAmazon

LF-03Check what's under the floor before you cutLaminate sits on underlay over either a timber subfloor or a concrete slab, and either can hide cables or pipes, especially if there's underfloor heating. Use a cable and pipe detector to scan the area, but still assume something could be there and set your cutting depth to be sure of missing it. Find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns, and if there's electric underfloor heating, isolate that circuit at the consumer unit before you cut. If you have any plans or fitter's notes showing pipe or cable runs, check them now.

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

Buy:Tooled UpB&QAmazon

LF-04Cut the damaged board freeSet a plunge saw or multitool to a cutting depth of 8-12mm, matching your laminate thickness exactly, so the blade cannot reach the underlay or subfloor beneath. Cut two diagonal lines from corner to corner of the damaged board, making an X, then cut along the centre of each triangle towards the middle. This breaks the board into four loose triangles you can lift out safely.

1 each · Plunge saw or multitool with fine blade

Buy:Tooled UpMachine MartB&QAmazon

1 each · Straight edge or speed square

Buy:Tooled UpB&QAmazon

LF-05Lift out the broken piecesPrise up the four triangles with a flat pry bar, working from the centre outwards. The pieces still locked to the neighbouring boards will need their tongue or groove edge trimmed off with a utility knife or chisel before they'll lift clear. Check the underlay underneath for damage and replace it if it's torn or crushed.

1 each · Flat pry bar

Buy:B&QAmazon

1 each · Utility knife

Buy:Tooled UpB&QAmazon

1 each · Chisel

Buy:Tooled UpB&QAmazon

LF-06Prepare the new boardA board dropped into the middle of a floor can't be clicked into its groove on all four sides, so trim the bottom lip off the groove edges of the new board with a utility knife or router. This lets the board drop straight down into the gap instead of needing to slide in from an angle. Test-fit it dry first, without glue, and trim further if it's tight.

LF-07Glue and fit the new boardRun a thin bead of PVA wood glue or laminate glue along the trimmed groove edges, then lower the board into the gap and press down firmly so the tongues on the remaining sides engage. Wipe off any glue that squeezes out straight away with a damp cloth. Tape the board down or weight it evenly and leave it for the glue's stated curing time, usually 24 hours.

1 bottle · PVA wood glue or laminate glue

Buy:Travis PerkinsB&QAmazon

1 roll · Masking tape

Buy:Tooled UpB&QAmazon

LF-08Clean up and finishOnce the glue has cured, remove the tape or weights and give the board a final wipe with a damp cloth. Sweep or vacuum the area to clear sawdust and offcuts, then move your furniture and rugs back into place.

Travis Perkins, Tooled Up and Machine Mart links are affiliate links: if you buy after clicking, we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. B&Q and Amazon links are plain searches and earn us nothing.

Save this as a project

Back to all guides

Related guides