Fit a coat rack to a lath and plaster wall

1 each · Cordless drill/driver

1 each · Spirit level

1 each · Tape measure

1 each · Pencil

1 each · Dust sheet

CR-02Work out what's behind the lath and plasterLath and plaster is a thin plaster skim over narrow timber strips (laths), and the laths are nailed to either timber studs or timber battens fixed to solid masonry. Tap along the wall: a hollow sound with the odd firmer patch every 400-600mm usually means timber studs; a duller, more solid sound often means masonry behind battens. A magnet or stud detector will pick up the line of nail heads holding the laths, which marks where the timber is.

1 each · Stud detector or magnet

CR-03Drill a test hole to confirm itDrill a small 3mm pilot hole in an inconspicuous spot. White plaster dust, then wood dust, then more wood means a timber stud. White plaster dust, then wood, then brick dust or solid resistance means masonry behind battens. If the hole brings out fine grey steel swarf, or your detector shows a metal frame, this wall isn't genuine lath and plaster — it's plasterboard on metal studs, which needs different fixings entirely.

1 each · 3mm drill bit

CR-04Check for cables and pipes, and know your isolation pointsCables and pipes can run almost anywhere, not just in the 'safe zones'. Run a cable/pipe detector over the area, but drill as if something could still be there — detectors miss deep cables, metal conduit, and anything behind metal-backed plasterboard. Before you drill, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns. If you're in any doubt, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and be ready to shut off the water at the stopcock if you hit a pipe.

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

CR-05Mark and level the fixing pointsHold the coat rack against the wall at your chosen height and draw a level line with the spirit level. Mark each fixing hole position on the line, then check the spacing against where you found timber studs or battens in step CR-02.

CR-06Fix into a timber stud or batten behind the lathWhere a mark lines up with timber, drill a 3mm pilot hole through the plaster and lath into the centre of the stud. Allow for 20-30mm of plaster and lath, plus at least 30mm of screw going into the timber itself, so use a screw around 60mm long. Drive it in firmly but don't overtighten, as lath and plaster is brittle and can crack.

4 each · Wood screws, 60mm

CR-07Fix into masonry behind battened lath and plasterWhere the test hole showed masonry, drill through the plaster, lath and any air gap using a masonry bit, then continue into the brick or block. Aim for at least 40mm of embedment into the masonry itself, not just the plaster. Insert a wall plug sized to match your drill bit, then drive the screw home.

1 each · Masonry drill bit, 6mm

4 each · Wall plugs, red

4 each · Screws, 70mm

CR-08Fix into lath and plaster alone, with no stud behindIf a fixing point has to fall between studs with only lath and plaster behind it, don't use a plastic plug — it will crack the brittle plaster and pull straight out. Use a heavy-duty spring toggle rated for at least 5-10kg per fixing, since coats and bags pull outward as well as down. Drill the hole to the size stated on the toggle packet, fold the toggle, push it through, and tighten until snug.

4 each · Spring toggle fixings

CR-09Fit the coat rackHold the rack against the marked line and drive a screw into each prepared fixing, starting loosely so you can adjust before final tightening. Recheck the rack is level, then tighten all fixings evenly. Give each fixing a firm tug test before hanging anything on it.

CR-10Tidy up and check it holdsVacuum plaster dust from the floor and skirting, then fold away the dust sheet. Fill any unused test holes with a dab of filler once the plaster is dry. Hang a couple of coats and check the fixings after a day or two, especially the between-stud toggle points.

1 each · Vacuum cleaner