Fit a curtain pole inside a window recess in a dot-and-dab plasterboard wall

Fit a curtain pole inside a window recess in a dot-and-dab wall, with the right fixing for whatever is really behind the plasterboard.

WR-01Check the recess and buy the right length poleMeasure the width of the recess at the top, middle and bottom, since window openings are rarely perfectly square. Buy a pole and bracket kit at least 20mm shorter than the narrowest point so the brackets don't foul the reveal. Check the kit includes brackets, rings, finials and fixing screws.

1 each · Curtain pole and bracket kit (recess length)

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1 each · Tape measure

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1 each · Pencil

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WR-02Mark the bracket positionsHold a bracket 100-150mm in from each end of the recess reveal, level with where you want the pole to sit. Mark the top screw hole position with a pencil dot on each side. Use a spirit level across the recess to check both marks are at the same height before you go any further.

1 each · Spirit level (250-400mm)

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WR-03Work out what's really behind the revealThe reveal (the side wall of the recess) is very often solid masonry even when the rest of the wall is dot-and-dab plasterboard, because dot-and-dab is usually only applied to the flat face of the wall. Tap the reveal: a dead, solid sound at every point means brick or block behind plaster; a hollow sound, or a hollow sound in some spots and solid in others, means plasterboard on studs or a dot-and-dab dab pattern. Drill a small 3mm pilot hole at one mark: brick dust means solid masonry, fine timber dust means a timber stud or batten, and grey metal swarf means a metal stud. In an older house with no dot-and-dab, a springy feel and a slightly uneven surface under the plaster usually means lath and plaster, with timber laths behind.

1 each · Stud and cable detector

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1 each · 3mm drill bit

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WR-04Check for cables and pipes, and know how to stop themCables and pipes can run almost anywhere near a window, especially if there's a socket or radiator nearby. Run your detector over each mark, but treat it as a warning system, not proof: detectors miss deep cables, cables in metal conduit, and anything behind metal-backed plasterboard, and a metal stud frame can confuse a cheap detector further. Find your stopcock now (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before you drill.

WR-05Drill and fix the brackets for your wall typeSolid brick or block behind plaster: drill 6mm holes 45mm deep, fit red or brown plastic plugs, and use 40-50mm No.8 screws. Dot-and-dab: drill through the plasterboard and the dab layer, then at least 30mm into the masonry behind, and use a long dot-and-dab fixing (a 60-75mm plug and screw, sold for this job) so it grips the masonry, not just the board. Timber stud: drill a 2mm pilot hole into the centre of the stud and use a 45mm wood screw. Metal stud: use a self-drilling metal-stud screw or a toggle-type hollow-wall fixing rated for the pole's weight — never a plastic wall plug or an ordinary wood screw, as both strip straight through 0.5mm steel. Lath and plaster: mark through gently with a bradawl first to avoid cracking the plaster, then screw through the lath into the timber stud or batten behind with a 40mm screw. A curtain pole is light, but if you're fitting a heavy full-length pole or one that will take a lot of pulling, use a fixing that reaches the masonry or a timber noggin rather than relying on plasterboard alone.

1 each · 6mm masonry drill bit

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1 pack · Wall plugs (brick/block, mixed pack)

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1 pack · Dot-and-dab long fixings (pack of 4)

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1 pack · Metal-stud self-drilling or toggle fixings (pack of 4)

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1 pack · Wood screws (40-45mm, pack)

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1 each · Cordless drill/driver

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WR-06Fit the brackets and hang the poleScrew each bracket firmly to the wall, checking with the spirit level as you go that they're level with each other. Slide the curtain rings onto the pole before you fit it, then click or screw the pole into the brackets. Fit the finials at each end once the pole is in place.

WR-07Test the fixing before you trust itPull down and outward on the pole with a firm, steady hand, roughly the way curtains will pull when opened and closed. It should not flex away from the wall or feel loose. If either bracket moves, remove it, fill the hole, and refit slightly to one side using a stronger fixing method from step WR-05.

WR-08Tidy upVacuum up brick, plaster or metal dust from the windowsill and floor. Fill any stray or unused pilot holes with a dab of decorator's caulk and leave it to dry before touching up with paint. Bin the packaging and keep any spare screws or plugs in a labelled bag for next time.

1 tube · Decorator's caulk

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1 each · Touch-up paint (small pot)

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