Fit a curtain pole inside a window recess in a lath and plaster wall — HomeGraft

Fit a curtain pole inside a window recess by finding what's behind the lath and plaster, then fixing it properly.

CP-01Measure the recess and buy the right poleMeasure the recess width at the top, middle and bottom with a tape measure — old reveals are rarely square, so use the smallest measurement. Buy a pole kit cut or cuttable to about 20-30mm less than that width, so the brackets clear the sides. Check the pole diameter matches the bracket kit.

1 each · Curtain pole kit (28mm dia, with 2 brackets and finials)

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1 each · Tape measure

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1 each · Pencil

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CP-02Work out what's actually behind the lath and plaster in the recessWindow reveals are often solid brick or block behind a plaster skim, even when the rest of the wall is lath and plaster on a timber frame — so don't assume. Run a stud detector or a strong magnet along the reveal about 150mm below your top bracket line. A row of evenly spaced points every 400-600mm means timber studs or battens behind the lath; a solid, even reading all the way across usually means masonry. Drill one 3mm test hole where a bracket will sit: timber dust means a stud or batten, fine grey dust means masonry or plaster, and bright metal swarf means a metal stud (uncommon here, but possible if the reveal has been re-boarded).

1 each · Stud detector or strong magnet

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1 each · 3mm drill bit

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CP-03Check for cables and pipes, and know how to isolate before you drillCables and pipes can run anywhere in this wall, including above a window where you might not expect them, and detectors can miss cables in metal conduit or behind metal-backed board. Sweep the whole fixing line with a cable and pipe detector, but still treat every mark as if something could be there. Find your stopcock now, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns freely so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling.

CP-04Mark the bracket positions and level themHold each bracket in place near the top corners of the recess, leaving 40-60mm clearance above so the pole clears the window and any handle or opening light. Use a spirit level to keep both brackets level with each other, then mark the fixing holes through the bracket with a pencil. For poles over 1.2m, mark a centre support bracket too.

1 each · Spirit level (600mm)

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CP-05Fixing into solid brick or block behind the lathIf your test hole found masonry, drill 6mm holes to a depth of 45mm using a masonry bit, then vacuum out the dust. Push a red wall plug in flush and screw the bracket on with a 6x60mm screw. This is the strongest and most common fixing in a window reveal.

1 each · 6mm masonry drill bit

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1 pack · Red wall plugs (pack)

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1 pack · Screws 6x60mm (pack)

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CP-06Fixing into lath and plaster on timber studs or battensIf your test found timber, adjust the bracket mark sideways if needed so the screw lands in the centre of the batten or stud, not the edge. Drill a 3mm pilot hole through the plaster and lath into the timber, then drive a 4x50mm wood screw straight through. Never screw into lath alone — it will pull straight out under the weight of curtains.

1 each · 3mm drill bit

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1 pack · Wood screws 4x50mm (pack)

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CP-07Fixing into a metal stud (if the reveal has been re-boarded)Metal studs are unusual in a lath and plaster wall but turn up where a reveal has been modernised. Never use a plain wall plug or an ordinary wood screw — it will strip straight through 0.5mm steel. Use a self-drilling metal-stud screw or a hollow-wall toggle fixing rated for the bracket's pull-out weight. A curtain pole is light, so this normally holds fine, but if you're hanging heavy, lined curtains, fit a timber noggin between the studs first or fix through to the masonry behind instead.

1 pack · Self-drilling metal stud fixings (pack)

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1 pack · Hollow-wall toggle fixings (pack)

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CP-08Fixing where the reveal has been re-skimmed with dot-and-dab plasterboardIf your test hole showed a gap behind the board before hitting anything solid, the reveal has been dot-and-dabbed onto masonry. Push a thin skewer through the pilot hole to find the depth of the gap, then choose a fixing long enough to pass through the board, the adhesive gap and still bite 30mm into the masonry behind. Drill to that total depth, fit a plug rated for the cavity, and screw the bracket on.

1 pack · Long fixing screws with sleeve plugs (75mm, pack)

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CP-09Fit the pole and check it's levelSlot the pole through the brackets, including any centre support, and tighten the bracket screws or clips that hold it in place. Rest a spirit level along the top of the pole and adjust a bracket slightly if one end has dropped.

CP-10Fit the finials and hang the curtainsPush or screw the finials onto each end of the pole to stop the curtain rings sliding off. Load the curtains onto the pole, then open and close them fully to check the pole doesn't sag or the brackets flex.

CP-11Tidy upVacuum plaster and drill dust from the windowsill and floor. Fill and lightly sand any test or old fixing holes that aren't covered by the brackets, and wipe the sill clean. Store leftover fixings in case a bracket ever needs re-tightening.

1 each · Multi-purpose filler (small tub)

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1 sheet · Fine-grit sandpaper

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1 each · Dust sheet

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