Fit a dado rail to a timber stud wall — HomeGraft

Mark a level line, work out what's behind the wall, then fix a dado rail with the right screws for your wall type.

DR-01Plan the height and mark a level lineDado rails usually sit around 900-1000mm from the floor, roughly a third of the way up the wall. Measure up from the floor at both ends of the wall, mark the height, then use a spirit level to draw a continuous pencil line between the marks. Check the line with the level every 500mm or so, since floors are rarely perfectly flat.

1 each · Pencil

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1 each · Tape measure

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1 each · 1200mm spirit level

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DR-02Work out what's behind the wallRun a stud detector along the wall following your line, or slide a strong magnet along it to pick up screw heads holding plasterboard to a frame. A hollow sound between hits means stud wall; a dull, solid knock all the way along means brick or block. Drill a small 3mm pilot hole at one point: fine pale dust is timber, grey dust with no give is masonry, and bright metal swarf means a metal stud frame.

1 each · Stud and cable detector

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1 each · Small magnet or fridge magnet

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1 each · 3mm drill bit

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DR-03Take safety precautions before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere, not just in the 'safe zones' shown in old diagrams, and a metal stud frame will confuse a cheap detector even further. Use your detector, but still assume something could be there and drill carefully to prove it isn't. Find your stopcock now, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns easily so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe; if you have any doubt at all, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling.

DR-04Mark your fixing points along the lineOn a timber stud wall, mark a fixing point at the centre of every stud you found in DR-02, usually every 400-600mm. On solid masonry, dot-and-dab, metal stud, or lath and plaster walls, space fixings every 400mm along the line instead, since you won't always be fixing into timber. Double check each mark lines up with your pencil line before drilling.

DR-05Cut the rail to length with mitred cornersMeasure each wall run and cut the dado rail square for straight joins, or at 45° in a mitre box for external and internal corners. Dry-fit the lengths against the wall before fixing anything, checking the mitres close up neatly. Cut slightly long rather than short, since you can always trim a touch more off.

5 m · Dado rail (per metre)

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1 each · Mitre box and tenon saw

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DR-06Fix the rail — method depends on your wall typeTimber stud: drive a 50-60mm wood screw through the rail into the centre of each stud, pre-drilling a pilot hole first so the rail doesn't split. Metal stud: never use a plain wall plug or wood screw, since it strips straight through 0.5mm steel; use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing at each stud, and a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor rated for the weight when a fixing point falls on plasterboard between studs. Solid brick or block: drill a 6-7mm hole to the depth of the plug, insert a wall plug, and drive a 50-60mm screw. Dot-and-dab plasterboard: check the depth of the void behind the board with a long thin drill bit first, then use a fixing long enough to pass through the plasterboard, the void, and at least 30mm into the solid masonry behind, typically 70-90mm. Lath and plaster: this is fragile and can crack, so find the timber studs behind the laths where possible and screw into those; where you must fix between studs, use a fine-threaded screw or a toggle fixing rated for light loads and avoid overtightening.

10 each · Wood screws 50-60mm

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10 each · Self-drilling metal stud fixings

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6 each · Toggle-type hollow-wall anchors

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10 each · Wall plugs (red or brown, 6-7mm)

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6 each · Masonry screws 70-90mm

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1 each · Cordless drill driver

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DR-07Check the rail is level and secureOnce all fixings are in, run the spirit level along the top of the rail to check it hasn't crept out of line while you were drilling. Push and pull gently along its length to check every section feels solid, especially over metal stud or dot-and-dab fixing points, and add an extra fixing anywhere it feels loose.

DR-08Fill screw holes and gapsFill any visible screw heads and mitre gaps with flexible decorator's filler, pushing it in with a filling knife. Wipe off excess with a damp cloth straight away, then leave it to dry fully following the tin's timings before sanding.

1 tube · Flexible decorator's caulk

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1 each · Filling knife

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DR-09Sand and paint the railOnce the filler is dry, sand it smooth with fine sandpaper and wipe away the dust. Apply primer if the rail is bare wood, then two coats of your chosen paint, letting each coat dry fully before the next.

2 sheet · Fine sandpaper (120-180 grit)

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0.5 litre · Wood primer

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0.75 litre · Satin or eggshell paint

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1 each · Paintbrush

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DR-10Clean upSweep or vacuum up any dust and offcuts, and wipe down skirting and floor where paint or filler may have dripped. Store any leftover rail offcuts in case you need a repair later, and dispose of paint tins and packaging according to your local council's guidance.

1 each · Dust sheet

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