Fit a dado rail to a solid brick or block wall — HomeGraft

Set out, cut, fix and finish a dado rail on a solid brick or block wall in one session.

DR-01Plan the height and clear the roomStandard dado height is about one-third up the wall from the floor, usually 900-1000mm, but check it lines up with any door handles or existing rails next door. Move furniture away from the wall and lay dust sheets. Take down curtains or blinds that are in the way.

2 each · Dust sheet

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

DR-02Mark your level lineMeasure up from the floor at both ends of each wall and mark your chosen height. Use a spirit level to draw a pencil line right round the room, checking it as you go rather than trusting the tape alone, since floors are rarely level. A chalk line snapped between two points is quicker on long runs.

1 each · Chalk line

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · Pencil

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

DR-03Confirm the wall is solid brick or blockTap the wall along your marked line. A dull, solid knock all the way along means solid masonry, which is what this job assumes. If any section sounds hollow, or a test hole brings out plasterboard dust instead of brick dust, that section is stud or dot-and-dab and needs different fixings than the ones below.

DR-04Measure the walls and cut the railMeasure each wall length and add extra for mitres at internal and external corners. Cut internal corners at 45° so the two pieces meet in a right angle, and external corners the same way but mirrored. Cut a few mm long first and trim back for a tight fit, since walls are rarely perfectly square.

4 each · MDF dado rail, per 2400mm length

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · Mitre saw or mitre block and tenon saw

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

DR-05Check for cables and pipes before you drillRun a cable and pipe detector along your whole marked line before drilling anything. Even with a clear reading, treat the wall as if something might still be there, since detectors miss cables that are deep, in conduit, or outside the usual safe zones near sockets and switches. Find your stopcock now, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns freely, so you can shut the water off fast if you ever hit a pipe. If you have any doubt about a spot, isolate that circuit at the consumer unit before drilling there.

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

DR-06Drill and plug the wallHold each length of rail against the wall on your line and mark fixing points roughly every 400-450mm, plus one near each end. Drill into the brick or block with a 5mm masonry bit to about 45mm depth, push in a 5mm wall plug, then drive a 4mm x 50mm screw. Drilling through the rail itself first, and countersinking the holes, keeps the screw heads hidden under filler later.

20 each · 5mm wall plugs

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

20 each · 4mm x 50mm screws

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · SDS or masonry drill bit, 5mm

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

DR-07Fix the rail to the wallLift each length onto its screws and drive them home so the rail sits flush and level. Butt mitred corners together and check the joint closes tightly before fully tightening the screws either side. Work round the room, checking the line with your spirit level as you go.

1 each · Cordless drill driver

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

DR-08Fill joints, screw holes and gapsFill mitre joints and countersunk screw holes with wood filler, and run a bead of decorators' caulk along the top and bottom edge where the rail meets the wall to hide any small gaps. Let the filler go off fully before sanding, usually 20-30 minutes for a small amount.

1 each · Wood filler, small tub

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · Decorators' caulk

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · Caulking gun

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

DR-09Sand smooth and wipe downSand filled areas and any rough mitres with fine sandpaper until smooth to the touch. Wipe the whole rail with a damp cloth to remove dust before painting, since dust left on the surface shows through the finish coat.

1 pack · Fine sandpaper, 120-180 grit

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · Cloth

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

DR-10Prime and paint the railApply one coat of primer or undercoat to bare MDF, especially the cut mitre ends which soak up paint fast. Once dry, apply two coats of your finish paint, letting each coat dry fully before the next.

1 each · Wood primer/undercoat, 750ml

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · Satin or eggshell paint, 750ml

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · Paintbrush

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

DR-11Tidy up and move furniture backLet the final coat dry fully, usually a few hours, before touching the rail. Sweep up dust and offcuts, fold away dust sheets, and put furniture back once the paint is properly hard, not just dry to the touch.

Some links may earn us a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Save this as a project

Back to all guides