AB-06Drill and fit the fixings for your wall typeBefore drilling, run a cable and pipe detector over the whole marked area in both directions - but still treat the wall as if something is there, because detectors miss deep cables, cables in metal conduit, and anything behind metal-backed plasterboard. Find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut off the water fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any real doubt, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn off the water at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry it.
On solid brick or block: drill a 6mm hole 40mm deep with a masonry bit, insert a matching wall plug, and drive in a 40-50mm screw.
On plasterboard over timber studs: drill a 3mm pilot hole into the centre of the stud and drive in a 40-50mm wood screw - no plug needed.
On plasterboard over metal studs: never use a plain wall plug or an ordinary wood screw - they strip straight through 0.5mm steel. Use a self-drilling metal-stud screw driven straight in, or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor if fixing between the studs.
On dot-and-dab plasterboard: check with a longer pilot hole first, then use a fixing long enough to pass through the plasterboard, the dab void, and 25-30mm into the masonry behind - usually 75-90mm, with a matching plug.
On lath and plaster: locate the stud or noggin behind the laths, stick a strip of masking tape over the drilling point to stop the plaster cracking, then drill a 3mm pilot hole slowly through the plaster and lath into the timber. Drive in a 50-64mm wood screw so it bites at least 25mm into solid timber behind the laths.