Fit a fire extinguisher bracket to a solid brick or block wall

Fit a fire extinguisher bracket securely to a solid brick or block wall, with safe drilling and the right fixings.

AB-01Choose the spot and check the kitPick a spot near an escape route or exit, close enough to reach a likely hazard (like the cooker) but not directly next to it. Follow the height shown on the extinguisher's own instructions if it gives one - there's no fixed rule for homes, but keeping the handle around 1000-1500mm off the floor makes it easy to grab in a hurry. Open the bracket kit and check what screws are included - they're often too short or the wrong type for a solid wall, so you may need your own.

RULES

1 each · Fire extinguisher wall bracket kit

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1 each · Tape measure

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1 each · Pencil

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KNOW THE RULES

There's no general legal requirement for fire extinguishers in an ordinary home. If you're fitting this in a rented property, HMO or workplace, check your landlord's fire risk assessment or local HMO licence conditions - these sometimes set specific extinguisher types, positions and mounting heights.

AB-02Confirm your wall type and mark the holesThis guide covers solid brick or block walls. If yours turns out to be plasterboard on timber or metal studs, or dot-and-dab over masonry, don't use plasterboard-only fixings here - a fire extinguisher gets grabbed and pulled hard in a hurry, exactly the kind of load a stud wall on its own won't take. On timber studs, fix into the centre of a stud with a wood screw; on metal studs, you need a timber noggin fitted between the studs or a fixing that reaches the masonry behind, not just a hollow-wall anchor. Hold the bracket against the wall, level it, and mark the fixing holes through it with a pencil.

1 each · Spirit level

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AB-03Check for cables and pipes before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a wall, not just in the 'safe zones'. Run a cable and pipe detector over each marked point, but treat it as a guide, not proof - detectors miss deep cables, armoured cable, and anything behind metal-backed board. Before you pick up the drill, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt about what's behind the wall, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit first.

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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AB-04Drill and plug the holesFor solid brick or block, drill 6mm holes to about 40mm deep using a masonry bit, brushing out the dust as you go. Push in a matching 6mm wall plug until it sits flush with the surface. If you're actually fixing through dot-and-dab, use a longer fixing (or long-shafted plug and screw) that passes through the plasterboard, crosses the dab gap, and still goes at least 30mm into the solid masonry behind - a standard-length plug on its own won't grip anything.

1 each · Masonry drill bit, 6mm

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4 each · Red wall plugs, 6mm

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4 each · Long masonry fixing (for dot-and-dab)

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1 each · Safety glasses

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AB-05Screw the bracket to the wallLine the bracket up with the plugged holes and drive in the screws, tightening evenly so the bracket doesn't twist. Don't overtighten into masonry - stop once the bracket sits flat and firm. Give the bracket a firm tug by hand to check it doesn't move or flex.

4 each · Woodscrews, 40mm No.8

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1 each · Cordless drill/driver

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AB-06Fit the extinguisher and tidy upSlot the extinguisher into the bracket and clip or strap it in place, following the bracket's own fitting instructions. Pull-test it as if grabbing it in an emergency, to make sure it lifts out easily but the bracket itself stays fixed. Sweep or vacuum up the masonry dust and wipe down the wall before you finish.

1 each · Dust sheet

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