Fit a kitchen roll holder to a metal stud wall — HomeGraft

Fix a kitchen roll holder safely and securely, whatever your wall is made of, in one straightforward session.

KR-01Gather your tools and pick the spotChoose a spot near your worktop or hob, at a height you can reach easily with one hand, and clear of cupboard doors when they swing open. Hold the holder against the wall and mark the top fixing hole with a pencil. Lay a dust sheet on the worktop below to catch drilling dust.

1 each · Kitchen roll holder (with fixing kit)

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1 each · Tape measure

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1 each · Spirit level (small)

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1 each · Pencil

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1 each · Dust sheet

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KR-02Work out what's behind the wallKitchen walls hide different things behind tiles: solid brick or block, plasterboard on timber studs, plasterboard on metal studs, dot-and-dab plasterboard on masonry, or in an older house, lath and plaster. Run a detector or magnet along the wall looking for a line of screw heads, and tap to feel for a hollow sound between studs. A small 2mm pilot hole tells you more: pale wood dust means a timber stud or lath, fine grey metal swarf means a metal stud, and solid resistance with brick dust means masonry.

1 each · Stud and cable detector

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1 each · Small magnet

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KR-03Check for cables and pipes, and find your stopcockCables and pipes can run almost anywhere behind a kitchen wall, and a metal stud frame can confuse a cheap detector, so scan the area but still expect to find something and drill carefully to prove it isn't there. Before you drill, check your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) turns freely, so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling.

1 each · Stud and cable detector

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KR-04Drill the pilot hole to suit your wallFor a tiled wall, stick a strip of masking tape over the mark first so the drill bit doesn't skate, and start with a tile bit before switching to the right bit for the wall behind. Metal stud: many self-drilling anchors need no pilot hole at all, or just a 3mm guide hole. Timber stud: drill a 2mm pilot into the centre of the stud. Solid brick or block: drill 6mm with a masonry bit to 40mm deep. Dot-and-dab: drill through the plasterboard and the air gap behind it, checking with a long thin drill bit that you reach solid masonry, often 50-75mm total depth. Lath and plaster: drill a fine 2mm pilot into a lath, checking first that you're not between laths.

1 each · Cordless drill

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1 each · Tile drill bit

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1 each · Masonry drill bit 6mm

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1 each · Pilot drill bit 2mm

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1 roll · Masking tape

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KR-05Fit the right fixing for your wall typeMetal stud: use a self-drilling or toggle-type metal-stud anchor, never a plain wall plug and never an ordinary wood screw, which strips straight through 0.5mm steel. Timber stud: drive a 3.5 x 40mm wood screw straight into the pilot hole in the centre of the stud. Solid brick or block: tap in a 6mm wall plug and use a 30-40mm screw. Dot-and-dab: use a fixing long enough to pass through the plasterboard and the dab gap and bite into the masonry, typically 60-75mm, with a matching plug. Lath and plaster: use a fine screw into sound lath, or a specialist plasterboard/lath anchor if the lath feels loose or crumbly, and keep this fixing to light loads only.

2 each · Metal stud self-drilling anchor

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2 each · Wood screws 3.5x40mm

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2 each · Wall plugs 6mm (red)

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2 each · Long fixing screw 75mm (dot-and-dab)

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2 each · Lath and plaster specialist anchor

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KR-06Screw the bracket to the wallHold the holder's back plate against the wall, check it's level with your spirit level, and mark the second fixing hole. Drill and fit that hole using the same method as the first, matched to your wall type. Drive both screws until the plate sits flush and doesn't wobble, but don't overtighten into plasterboard or you'll crush the board.

1 each · Screwdriver (or drill driver bit)

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KR-07Fit the roll and test itSlot the rod or arm into the bracket as per the holder's instructions. Load a full roll and pull off a sheet a few times, checking the fixing doesn't move, flex, or pull away from the wall. If it's loose on a metal stud, that fixing isn't strong enough on its own and you'll need to add a timber noggin behind the board or fix through to the masonry.

1 each · Kitchen roll (for testing)

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KR-08Clean up and check the finishWipe away any dust or debris from drilling, especially brick or tile dust on the worktop. If you drilled a test hole in the wrong spot, fill it with a small amount of filler and let it dry before touching in with matching paint or grout. Put any spare screws and plugs somewhere safe for next time.

1 each · Cloth

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1 each · Filler (small tube)

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