UR-04Fit the right fixings for your wall typeSolid brick or block: drill with a 6mm masonry bit to 35mm deep, insert a 6mm wall plug, then drive a 40mm screw. Timber stud: find the centre of the stud, drill a 2mm pilot hole, and drive a 40mm wood screw straight into the timber - no plug needed. Metal stud: never use a plastic wall plug or a plain wood screw, they strip straight through 0.5mm steel. Use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a spring/gravity toggle rated for the rail's loaded weight, driven with a screwdriver rather than a drill on hammer action. If the rail will carry heavy pans or take a pulling force as you use it, fit a timber noggin or pattress between the studs first, or fix through to the masonry behind - a metal stud alone won't hold that. Dot-and-dab plasterboard: use a fixing long enough to pass through the board and the adhesive dabs into the solid masonry behind, typically a 60-75mm frame fixing with a plug. Plasterboard between studs with no stud behind the fixing: use a hollow-wall toggle rated for the rail's full loaded weight. Lath and plaster: aim for a joist or batten where you can; if you must fix into laths alone, use a fine screw, expect it to be weaker, and back up a heavy rail with a noggin fixed to the joists.