Fit a magnetic knife strip to a dot-and-dab plasterboard wall

1 each · Spirit level

1 each · Pencil

KN-02Mark the height and draw a level lineMost people fit these about 150mm above the worktop, but check nothing sticking up (a tap, a jar) will get in the way. Hold the strip against the wall and mark through the fixing holes with a pencil. Use the spirit level to draw a light level line so both holes line up.

1 each · Spirit level

1 roll · Masking tape

KN-03Work out what the wall is made ofTap the wall: solid brick or block sounds dead and doesn't change note as you move the strip. A hollow, drum-like sound that changes as you move along is a stud wall or dot-and-dab. Run a detector over the area, or push a bradawl in gently at your marked points — brick-red dust means masonry, pale wood dust means a timber stud, fine grey swarf means a metal stud, and hitting nothing solid for 20-50mm before a hard stop usually means dot-and-dab.

1 each · Stud, pipe and cable detector

1 each · Bradawl

KN-04Check for cables and pipes before you drillSweep the detector over your marked points, but still treat the wall as if something could be there — detectors miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, behind metal-backed plasterboard, or outside the usual safe zones, and a metal stud frame confuses cheap detectors further. Find your stopcock now, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn the water off at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry water.

1 each · Stud, pipe and cable detector

KN-05Mark and dimple the fixing holesConfirm your two hole centres on the level line, spaced to match the strip's fixing holes exactly. Use the bradawl to make a small dimple at each mark so the drill bit doesn't wander when you start.

1 each · Bradawl

KN-06Drill and fix — solid brick or blockIf you're drilling through tiles, start slow with a tile bit to get through the glaze, then switch to a masonry bit once you're through. Drill 6mm holes to 40mm depth for a standard wall plug and No.8 screw. Push the plug in flush, then drive the screw through the strip's fixing hole.

1 each · Masonry drill bit, 6mm

1 pack · Wall plugs (Rawlplug), pack of 10

1 pack · Screws, No.8 x 40mm, pack

KN-07Drill and fix — dot-and-dab plasterboardThere's usually a 20-50mm air gap behind the board before you reach the masonry. Use a long masonry bit and drill right through the board, through the gap, and into the wall behind — you'll feel the drill drop slightly as it clears the gap. Fit a long fixing (typically 60-75mm) that bridges the gap and grips in the masonry, not a short plasterboard-only fixing, so the strip doesn't pull loose over time.

1 each · Long masonry drill bit, 6mm x 100mm

1 pack · Dot-and-dab frame fixings, 75mm, pack

KN-08Drill and fix — plasterboard on timber studsIf a hole lands on a stud centre, drill a 2mm pilot hole and drive a 40mm wood screw straight in — no plug needed. If a hole falls between studs, don't rely on the timber; fit a plasterboard toggle fixing rated for a light load instead, since a knife strip is light enough for one.

1 pack · Wood screws, 40mm, pack

1 each · Pilot drill bit, 2mm

1 pack · Plasterboard toggle fixings, light-duty, pack

KN-09Drill and fix — plasterboard on metal studsNever use a plain wall plug or an ordinary wood screw here — it strips straight through 0.5mm steel and won't hold. A magnetic knife strip is light, so a good toggle-type hollow-wall anchor between the studs is usually enough. If a hole lands on the metal track itself, use a self-drilling metal-stud screw made for the job, not a general-purpose one.

1 pack · Toggle-type hollow-wall anchors, pack

1 pack · Self-drilling metal-stud screws, pack

KN-10Drill and fix — lath and plasterOld lath and plaster crumbles easily, so drill slowly with no hammer action and stop as soon as you feel resistance change. If you hit a solid timber lath, drive a screw straight into it. If you don't, use a spring-toggle or hollow-wall fixing rated for old plaster rather than forcing a plug into crumbly material.

1 each · Fine pilot drill bit, 2mm

1 pack · Spring-toggle fixings for lath and plaster, pack

KN-11Fit the strip and check it's secureOffer the strip up to the wall and drive the screws home through the fixing holes. Don't overtighten — you can crack plaster or crush plasterboard if you force it. Check the strip is level and give it a firm tug to make sure it doesn't move.

1 each · Cordless drill/driver

KN-12Load the knives and tidy upWipe down the wall and worktop with a damp cloth to clear dust and debris. Vacuum any drilling dust from the floor and worktop. Hang your knives, checking each one sits clear of the hob and any water splashes.

1 each · Damp cloth

1 each · Dust sheet