Fit a row of coat hooks to a dot-and-dab plasterboard wall — HomeGraft

Fit a secure row of coat hooks by checking your wall type first and using the correct fixing for it.

CH-01Plan the layoutDecide how many hooks you need and space them 150-200mm apart. Mark a rough height, usually around 1400mm from the floor for adult use, lower for kids. Hold a hook against the wall to check it clears any nearby door or window trim before you commit to a line.

1 each · Tape measure

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1 each · Pencil

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1 pack · Coat hooks (pack of 3)

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CH-02Work out what's behind the wallTap along the wall. A dull, slightly springy sound with give usually means dot-and-dab plasterboard over masonry. A solid knock everywhere means solid brick or block. A hollow sound that changes every 400-600mm, with a line of old screw heads, means a timber or metal stud wall. An older house with a muffled, slightly bouncy sound behind a thin skim of plaster is likely lath and plaster.

1 each · Stud and cable detector

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CH-03Check for pipes and cables before you drillRun the detector over each mark, but still treat the wall as if something is there — detectors miss deep cables, metal conduit, and anything behind metal-backed board, and a metal stud frame can confuse a cheap detector completely. Find your stopcock now, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns, so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn the water off at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry water.

CH-04Mark and level the hook positionsUse a spirit level to draw a light horizontal pencil line at your chosen height. Measure and mark each hook position along the line at equal spacing. Press a bradawl into each mark to stop the drill wandering.

1 each · Spirit level (800mm)

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1 each · Bradawl

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CH-05Drill and fix — solid masonry and dot-and-dabOn solid brick or block, drill 35-40mm deep with a 6mm or 8mm masonry bit matching your wall plug, then push the plug in flush. On dot-and-dab, drill through the plasterboard first — you'll often feel an air gap of up to 50mm behind it before you reach the masonry dabs. Use a longer masonry bit (around 70-75mm) so you go through the board, past the void, and at least 30mm into the solid wall behind, then fit a plug and screw long enough to bridge the whole depth. A short fixing that only grips the plasterboard will pull straight out under any real weight.

1 set · Masonry drill bit set

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6 each · Wall plugs (rated for dot-and-dab depth)

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6 each · Screws (50-75mm, size to match plugs)

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CH-06Drill and fix — timber stud, metal stud, and lath and plasterFor a timber stud, aim your screw at the centre of the stud and drive a 40mm wood screw straight in — no plug needed. For a metal stud, never use a plain plastic plug or a wood screw, as it strips straight through 0.5mm steel; use a self-drilling metal-stud screw if you're hitting the stud, or a plasterboard toggle fixing between studs for light loads like a coat hook. For lath and plaster, drill gently — old plaster is brittle and can crack — and use a lightweight toggle fixing that spreads load across the plaster, or find a timber lath or joist behind for a stronger hold. A pilot hole that brings out fine wood dust means timber; fine grey swarf means metal.

6 each · Wood screws (40mm)

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6 each · Self-drilling metal-stud screws

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6 each · Plasterboard toggle fixings

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CH-07Attach the hooksScrew each hook's baseplate onto its fixing, checking it sits square against the wall. Tighten firmly but stop as soon as it's snug — overtightening can crack plasterboard or old plaster. Recheck the line with your spirit level before you finish the last hook.

1 each · Screwdriver or drill driver

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CH-08Test and tidy upHang a heavy coat or bag on each hook and give it a firm downward tug to check the fixing holds. Vacuum up dust and brush any plaster crumbs from the skirting. Wipe the wall clean and put your tools away.

1 each · Dust sheet

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1 each · Cloth

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