Hang a dartboard on a dot-and-dab plasterboard wall

Fit a dartboard securely at the right height, checking your wall type first so you pick a fixing that will hold under repeated impact.

AB-01Mark the height and check the throw spaceThe standard height from the floor to the bullseye is 1730mm. Mark this point on the wall with a pencil. Measure out 2370mm from the wall for the throw line (the oche) and check there's clear floor space and nothing fragile either side of the board.

1 each · Pencil

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1 roll · Masking tape

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AB-02Work out what's behind the wallKnock along the wall. A dull, solid sound is brick or block. A hollow sound with a change in pitch every 400-600mm usually means stud work behind plasterboard. Run a magnet or stud detector along the line where you knocked hollow: a magnet grabbing at regular points means metal studs, timber studs won't attract it. Drill a small 2-3mm pilot hole at your marked point - fine pale dust means timber or plasterboard, grey brick dust means masonry, and bright metal swarf means a metal stud or its track.

1 each · Stud detector or magnet

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1 each · 2-3mm drill bit

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AB-03Check for cables and pipes before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere, not just in the 'safe zones', so scan the area with a detector but still treat the wall as if something's there. Find your stopcock now (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut the water off fast if you ever hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling.

AB-04Drill and fit the right fixing for your wallSolid brick or block: drill 60mm deep with a 6mm masonry bit, insert a wall plug and drive in the screw. Plasterboard on timber studs: locate the centre of the stud and drive a 50mm wood screw straight in, no plug needed. Plasterboard on metal studs: never use a wood screw or plain plug, they strip straight through 0.5mm steel; use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing rated for the load. Dot-and-dab: the board sits on a 25-50mm air gap over masonry, so use a long fixing (75-100mm) that passes through the plasterboard and dabs and grips the masonry behind, not a short plug in the plasterboard alone. Lath and plaster: aim for a timber lath or the stud/joist behind it if you can find one; if not, use a fine-thread hollow-wall fixing that won't crack the old plaster as it tightens.

1 pack · 6mm masonry plugs & screws (pack of 10)

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2 each · 50mm wood screws

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2 each · Self-drilling metal-stud fixings

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2 each · Long fixing for dot-and-dab (75-100mm)

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1 each · SDS or combi drill

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AB-05Mount the bracket and hang the boardScrew the dartboard's wall bracket to the fixings, checking it's level before you tighten fully. Hook the dartboard onto the bracket and give it a firm push to check it's solid and doesn't rock. Spin the board slightly to make sure it clears the wall and isn't rubbing.

1 each · Dartboard wall bracket (2-hole)

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1 each · Spirit level

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AB-06Tidy upVacuum up any dust or swarf from drilling, especially metal filings if you went into a metal stud. Wipe the wall down and put spare plugs, screws and offcuts back in your toolbox for next time.

1 each · Vacuum cleaner

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1 each · Cloth

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