DOORS & JOINERY

Fit a sliding barn door track to a lath and plaster wall

Fit a sliding barn door track with solid backing support, then hang, adjust and finish the door safely.

BD-01Clear the space and take off the old doorMove furniture and rugs clear of the doorway and lay a dust sheet on the floor. If there's an existing hinged door, unscrew the hinges and lift it away — keep it if you're reusing it as the sliding door, or store it safely if not. Check whether the door you're removing is a fire door before you commit to the barn door style.
RULES
1 each · Dust sheet
1 each · Sliding barn door track kit (rail, rollers, floor guide)
KNOW THE RULES

If the door you're removing is a fire door (common on escape routes, or between a garage and the house), Building Regulations Part B expects it to be fire-resisting and self-closing. A sliding barn door does neither, so check with your council building control if you're unsure before you remove one.

BD-02Mark the track height and a level lineSliding barn door tracks usually sit 50-100mm above the door opening, high enough for the door to clear the frame as it slides. Measure up from the floor and mark this point, then use a spirit level to draw a true horizontal line the full length of your track run — the door width plus roughly half the door width again in clear wall to slide it open. Check the line clears any switches, sockets or coving before you commit to it.
1 each · Spirit level
1 each · Tape measure
BD-03Work out what's really behind the lath and plasterLath and plaster is almost always fixed to timber studs or joists spaced roughly 400-600mm apart, but a refurbished wall can have new metal studs, or the laths can sit over solid brick in older bay windows and chimney breasts. Tap along your level line — the void behind the laths sounds hollow, a solid stud sounds dull and firm. Run a detector or magnet along the line to find a steady pattern of fixings roughly every 400-600mm, then drill a 3mm pilot hole at a suspected stud: timber dust means a timber stud, fine grey swarf means a metal stud, and no resistance at all means you've found a gap and need to move along.
1 each · Cable/stud/pipe detector
BD-04Check for cables and pipes before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere, not just in the routes you'd expect, and a cheap detector can miss anything deep, in conduit, or behind old metal lath — some lath and plaster walls and ceilings use expanded metal lath instead of timber, which fools most detectors completely. Sweep your whole line with a detector, but still treat every drilling point as if something could be there. Before you drill, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn off the water at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could hide a pipe.
BD-05Fit a plywood backing board across the studsA barn door track and door are heavy, and old lath and plaster alone will not hold the load — you need a solid timber backing board screwed into whatever is behind the plaster. Cut an 18mm exterior-grade plywood board the length of your track run and 150-200mm deep, then hold it against your level line and mark through it onto the wall. For timber studs, screw through the board and plaster straight into the centre of each stud with 4x60mm wood screws, at least one fixing per stud. For metal studs found in a refurbished wall, do not use wood screws or plain plastic plugs — they strip straight through 0.5mm steel; use self-drilling metal-stud screws, but know a metal stud alone won't carry a barn door, so fit a timber noggin between the studs first or fix through to solid masonry behind if there is any. For solid brick or block found behind the lath, drill a 6-7mm hole through the board and plaster, insert masonry wall plugs, and use 6x75mm screws so they bite at least 40mm into the masonry. If you discover the wall is actually dot-and-dab plasterboard on masonry rather than true lath and plaster, the adhesive dabs won't hold the weight either — use 75-100mm screws long enough to pass through the board, the plasterboard and the dab void, and bite at least 40mm into the solid wall behind. Pack any gaps behind the board with thin timber shims so it sits flat and doesn't crack the old plaster as you tighten the screws.
1 each · Plywood backing board, 18mm, cut to size
8 each · Wood screws 4x60mm
1 pack · Self-drilling metal-stud screws (pack)
1 pack · Masonry wall plugs (pack)
6 each · Screws 6x75mm
1 pack · Timber packing shims (pack)
BD-06Drill and fix the track to the backing boardHold the track against the backing board along your level line and mark the fixing hole positions through the track's slots. Drill a pilot hole into the board at each mark, then fix the track using the coach screws or bolts supplied with the kit. Tighten the fixings evenly along the length so the track doesn't twist, then re-check it's level before moving on.
1 set · Coach screws (kit-supplied)
1 set · Drill bit set
BD-07Hang the door and fit the floor guideFit the rollers to the top of the door following the kit's instructions, then lift the door onto the track — this usually needs two people, as barn doors are heavy and awkward on your own. Fit the floor guide at the bottom to stop the door swinging out, making sure it doesn't catch the door as it slides. Run the door back and forth over its full travel and check for smooth movement with no scraping or binding.
1 each · Floor guide bracket (kit-supplied)
BD-08Fine-tune, tidy up and make goodIf the door catches or sits unevenly, adjust the roller height or floor guide slightly using the kit's adjustment screws. Fill any old fixing holes or gaps around the backing board with flexible filler, let it dry, then sand smooth and touch up with matching paint. Vacuum up plaster dust, wipe down surfaces, and pack away your tools.
1 tube · Flexible filler
1 pack · Fine-grade sandpaper
1 tin · Touch-up paint

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