Fit a sliding barn door track to a timber stud wall — HomeGraft

Fit a track batten across your studs, then hang and level the sliding door so it runs smoothly and safely.

AB-01Measure up and choose your track lengthMeasure the door opening width, then pick a track length at least twice that width so the door can slide fully open. Most barn door track sits 40-50mm above the top of the door, with a 15-20mm gap for the roller bracket underneath. Check you have at least 100mm of clear wall past the opening for the door to slide into when open. Match the track's weight rating to your door - a solid timber door needs a 30kg+ rated track, a hollow-core door usually needs 20kg.

1 each · Sliding barn door track kit, 2.4m, rated to door weight

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1 each · Barn-style door, if not already owned

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AB-02Clear the wall and remove any existing doorLift the existing door off its hinges, and remove the frame or architrave if it sits in the track's path. Clear the wall of pictures, shelves or fittings within the door's full travel plus 100mm each side. Fill any old screw holes and let the filler dry fully before moving on.

1 tube · Filler

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1 sheet · Fine sandpaper

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AB-03Work out what your wall is made ofTap along the wall where the track will run. Solid brick or block sounds dull and solid all the way along, a stud wall sounds hollow between the studs and solid over them, and dot-and-dab sounds hollow with no regular pattern. Run a stud detector or a strong magnet along the line - a magnet catches on the screw heads fixing plasterboard to metal studs, and a detector shows studs at roughly 400-600mm centres either way. If you're still unsure, drill a 3mm pilot hole in an inconspicuous spot: pale dust means timber, fine grey swarf means metal, and solid resistance with brick dust means masonry.

AB-04Check for cables and pipes before you drill anythingCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a wall, not just in the usual safe zones, so treat every marked point as live until you've proved otherwise. Use a cable and pipe detector along the whole line, but don't trust it completely - it can miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, behind metal-backed plasterboard, or confused by a metal stud frame. Find your stopcock now, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns, so you can shut off the water fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn off the water at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry water.

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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AB-05Fit a timber backing batten across timber studsMark every stud along the track line - you need at least 3, ideally 4, evenly spaced. Cut a 68x35mm timber batten to the track's length and screw it flat to the wall with 80mm woodscrews, one into the centre of each stud, using pre-drilled 3mm pilot holes to stop the screws splitting the timber. This gives the track a solid, continuous fixing line instead of relying on plasterboard alone. If you're fixing into masonry instead, skip ahead to Step 7.

1 each · Timber batten 68x35x2400mm

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1 box · Woodscrews 80mm, box of 100

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1 each · 3mm drill bit

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AB-06Fit backing for metal stud, dot-and-dab, or lath and plaster wallsA metal stud on its own won't hold a sliding door track - the constant side-to-side pull as the door runs will loosen a fixing or tear straight through 0.5mm steel. Fit a timber batten as in the timber stud step, but fix it with 25mm self-drilling metal stud screws into every stud, and add a snug-fitting timber noggin between studs at each end for extra support. On dot-and-dab, drill through the board and the 30-50mm adhesive gap behind it, then fix the batten with 100mm frame fixings into the solid masonry - an ordinary wall plug won't reach. On lath and plaster, locate the timber studs behind the laths as normal and pre-drill pilot holes before driving screws, to stop the brittle plaster cracking around the fixing.

1 box · Self-drilling metal stud screws 25mm, box

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2 each · Timber noggin offcut 68x35mm

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1 pack · Frame fixings 100mm, pack of 10

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1 box · Plasterboard screws, box

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AB-07Fix directly into solid masonryFor solid brick or block, skip the timber batten and fix the track brackets straight to the wall. Drill 8mm holes at least 40mm deep with a masonry bit, insert a red wall plug, and drive in a 60mm screw at each bracket point. Drill slowly so you can feel the difference between solid brick and softer mortar joints, and reposition any hole that lands on a joint.

1 each · Masonry drill bit 8mm

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1 pack · Red wall plugs, pack of 20

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1 box · Screws 60mm, box

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AB-08Mark and level the track lineHold the track against the wall at your measured height and check it's level with a spirit level, not just level with the floor, which may not be true. Mark through the fixing holes onto the batten or wall with a pencil. Double-check the height matches the door's roller position so it will hang clear of the floor by an even gap.

1 each · Pencil

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AB-09Drill and fix the track to the wallUsing the fixing method for your wall type from the earlier steps, drill each marked point and fix the track firmly, working along its length and checking it stays level as you go. Tighten every fixing fully - a loose point will let the door judder as it rolls. Give the fitted track a firm downward and outward tug to check it doesn't flex or pull away from the wall.

1 each · Driver bit set

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AB-10Hang the door and fit the floor guideWith a helper, lift the door onto the track rollers, following the kit's instructions for clipping or bolting them in place. Slide the door fully open and closed to check it runs smoothly and clears the floor and skirting evenly. Fit the floor guide bracket at the point where the closed door sits, screwing it down to stop the bottom of the door swinging.

1 each · Floor guide bracket kit

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1 pack · Fixing screws for floor guide

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AB-11Adjust, test and tidy upAdjust the roller height bolts if the door rubs on the floor or hangs unevenly, then re-check it's level. Wipe down the track and door, and vacuum any drilling dust from the floor and skirting. Store leftover fixings and offcuts safely, and put sharp tools away out of reach of children.

1 each · Cloth

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