Fit a vertical blind to a lath and plaster wall

Fit a vertical blind above your window by finding solid fixing points, checking for hazards, then mounting brackets and hanging the slats.

AB-01Check the kit and measure the windowUnpack the blind and check you have the headrail, brackets, screws, chain and enough louvres for the width. Measure the window recess or wall space where the headrail will sit, and check the brackets will clear the window handle or any reveal. Decide whether the blind will fix to the ceiling, the wall above the window, or inside the recess.

1 each · Vertical blind kit

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1 each · Tape measure

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AB-02Mark the bracket positionsHold the headrail up at the planned height and mark the screw holes with a pencil. Use a spirit level along the top of the headrail so the blind hangs straight, not just level with the window frame. Brackets usually go near each end and every 500-600mm along a wide headrail.

1 each · Spirit level

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1 each · Pencil

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AB-03Work out what the wall or ceiling is made ofLath and plaster feels slightly springy and sounds hollow with lots of dull thuds when you tap it, because it's plaster on thin timber laths with gaps behind, not a solid board. A stud detector can be unreliable on lath and plaster because of the metal lath nails, so also check for a solid stud or joist behind by tapping and looking for a straight line of old nail heads or fixings. If you're fixing to a stud wall instead, a magnet dragged over the surface will stick at the screw heads fixing plasterboard to a timber or metal stud; a pilot hole bringing out pale wood dust means timber, and fine grey metal shavings mean a metal stud. Solid brick or block behind plaster gives a hard, consistent knock with no bounce.

1 each · Stud detector

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1 each · Small magnet

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AB-04Check for hidden cables and pipes before drillingCables and pipes can run almost anywhere, not just in the marked safe zones, so run a cable and pipe detector over every mark before you drill. Even then, treat the wall as if something is there until you prove otherwise, because deep cables, metal conduit and metal-backed plasterboard can all fool a detector, and a metal stud frame will confuse a cheap one further. Find your stopcock now, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns freely so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt about what's behind the wall, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn off the water at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry a pipe.

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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AB-05Drill and fix the brackets for lath and plasterDrill a small pilot hole first to find the gap between the laths, then use a long screw fixing that passes through the plaster and lath into a solid ceiling joist or wall stud behind, not just into the plaster itself, which will crumble and pull out. If you can't hit a joist or stud where you need a bracket, fit a short timber batten across two joists or studs first, screwed in place, and fix the bracket into that. Never rely on ordinary wall plugs in lath and plaster alone; the lime plaster is too soft and brittle to hold weight on its own.

8 each · Long wood screws (63mm)

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1 length · Timber batten (25x50mm)

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AB-06Drill and fix the brackets for other wall typesIn solid brick or block, drill an 6-8mm hole to the depth of the plug, insert a wall plug, and drive in the bracket screw. On a timber stud wall, drive the bracket screw straight into the centre of the stud with an ordinary wood screw, no plug needed. On a metal stud wall, never use a wood screw or plastic plug, they strip straight through 0.5mm steel; use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or toggle-type hollow-wall anchor rated for the bracket's pull-out load instead. On dot-and-dab plasterboard, use a fixing long enough to pass through the plasterboard, the adhesive dabs and the air gap to grip the masonry wall behind, usually 60-75mm.

8 each · Wall plugs (red, 6mm)

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8 each · Self-drilling metal-stud fixings

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8 each · Long fixing for dot-and-dab (65mm)

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1 each · Cordless drill

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AB-07Fit the headrail and check it's secureClip or screw the headrail onto the fixed brackets, following the kit's instructions, since some snap in and others need a locking screw. Give the headrail a firm downward and outward tug to check it doesn't move or flex where it meets the wall or ceiling. If any bracket feels loose, stop and refix it properly before hanging the louvres, rather than hoping it holds.

AB-08Hang the louvres and fit the chainClip each louvre onto its carrier in the headrail, working along from one end, and attach the bottom chain weights as instructed in the kit. Connect the tilt and draw chains at the base if they're supplied separately. Run the blind fully open and closed to check every louvre clips in and turns together.

AB-09Clear up and do a final checkVacuum up plaster dust and any wood or metal shavings from the sill, floor and windowsill, lath and plaster dust in particular gets everywhere. Wipe down the louvres with a damp cloth to remove fingerprints and dust from fitting. Operate the blind a few more times and re-tighten any bracket screws that have worked loose.

1 each · Vacuum cleaner

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1 each · Cloth

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