WINDOWS & BLINDS

Fit a vertical blind to a timber stud wall

Fit brackets and headrail above your window, find a safe fixing point in the wall, then hang and test your vertical blind.

VB-01Measure and mark bracket positionsMeasure the width of your window and decide how many brackets you need — two for a narrow window, three or more for anything over about 1.8m wide, spaced evenly. Hold the headrail in place (or use the box it came in as a guide) and mark each bracket position lightly in pencil, checking with a spirit level so the headrail will sit dead level.
1 each · Vertical blind kit (headrail and louvres)
1 each · Pencil
1 each · Tape measure
VB-02Work out what's behind the wall above the windowRun a detector across each marked bracket position to check for timber studs, metal studs, or solid masonry, and to pick up any cables or pipes. A line of screw heads under the plaster, a solid knock, and timber dust from a small test hole all point to a timber stud. A hollow, drum-like sound between evenly spaced upright lines, and fine grey swarf instead of dust, means metal studs — common in flats and anything built or refitted since the 1990s. If the wall sounds solid all over with no give, you're likely into brick or block, or plasterboard fixed to masonry with dabs of adhesive (dot-and-dab) rather than a timber frame.
1 each · Stud and cable detector
VB-03Check for cables and pipes, and know how to shut things offCables and pipes can run almost anywhere, not just in the marked 'safe zones' — a detector can miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, or behind metal-backed plasterboard, and a metal stud frame can confuse a cheap detector further. Before you drill, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut the water off fast if you ever hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all about what's behind the wall, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling.
VB-04Fix the brackets for your wall typeTimber stud: drill a 2mm pilot hole into the centre of the stud and drive in a 4x40mm wood screw. Metal stud (0.5mm steel): never use a wood screw or plain wall plug, as they strip straight through — use self-drilling metal-stud screws, or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor if the bracket falls between studs rather than on one. Solid brick or block: drill 6mm holes 45-50mm deep, fit a wall plug, and use a 50mm screw. Dot-and-dab plasterboard: use a longer fixing, around 75mm, that passes through the board and dabs and bites into the solid masonry behind. Lath and plaster: locate the horizontal timber lath with your detector or a test hole, and screw through the plaster into the lath — for a heavier or wider blind, fit a timber noggin behind the plaster first, as plaster alone will crumble.
1 pack · Wood screws 4x40mm (pack of 10)
1 pack · Self-drilling metal-stud screws (pack of 10)
1 pack · Wall plugs (red, pack of 10)
1 pack · Masonry screws 50mm (pack of 10)
1 pack · Long fixing screws 75mm (pack of 10)
1 each · Timber noggin 50x50mm (cut to length)
VB-05Fit the headrailClip or screw the headrail onto the fixed brackets, following the fitting instructions in your blind kit. Run a spirit level along the top of the rail and adjust as needed before locking it in place.
VB-06Hang the louvresClip each louvre onto its carrier on the headrail, working along from one end. If the louvres are too long, trim them from the bottom with sharp scissors, following the manufacturer's cutting line, and refit the weights and chain into the hem.
1 each · Sharp scissors
VB-07Fit the control chain and check it runs freelyClip on the bottom chain that links the louvres and attach the control wand or cord. Run the blind fully open and closed a few times, checking the louvres turn evenly and the headrail hasn't shifted.
VB-08Tidy upVacuum up any plaster or timber dust from the sill and floor. Wipe the louvres clean and dispose of packaging responsibly.

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