Fit a vertical blind to a metal stud wall

Fit bracket screws and a headrail above your window, using the right fixing for your actual wall type.

AB-01Check the kit and measure upUnpack the blind and check you have a headrail, enough brackets for the width (usually one every 500-600mm, plus one at each end), and matching louvres. Measure the window recess or wall space and mark where the headrail will sit, following the manufacturer's spacing guide. Have a pencil, tape measure and spirit level ready.

1 each · Tape measure

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1 each · Spirit level (600mm)

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1 each · Dust sheet

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AB-02Find your stopcock before you drill anythingBefore drilling near a window wall, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut the water off fast if you ever hit a pipe. If there's any doubt about what's behind the wall, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling. This takes two minutes now and matters far more once the drill is running.

AB-03Work out what your wall is actually made ofTap along the wall: a dull, solid sound means brick or block; a hollow sound means stud or dot-and-dab. Run a magnet or stud detector along the line of any visible screw heads (skirting, sockets) - it will grab or beep over metal fixings and framing. Drill a small 2-3mm pilot hole in a hidden spot: fine white dust and grit means masonry, pale wood dust means a timber stud, and shiny grey swarf means a metal stud.

1 each · Stud and cable detector

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AB-04Mark bracket positions and check for hidden cables and pipesHold the headrail in place, level it, and mark each bracket hole with a pencil. Run your detector over every mark - but treat it as a warning, not a guarantee, since it can miss deep cables, cables in metal conduit, or anything behind metal-backed plasterboard, and a metal stud frame will confuse a cheap detector further. Avoid drilling directly above sockets or switches, where cables commonly run vertically, and if you're not confident the area is clear, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit first.

1 each · Pencil

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AB-05Fixing into solid brick or blockDrill with a 6mm masonry bit to a depth of about 40mm, slightly deeper than the plug length, then blow out the dust. Insert a 6mm wall plug and drive in a 4x40mm screw through the bracket. Check the bracket is tight and doesn't spin in the hole - if it does, the plug is in old, crumbly mortar and you should move the hole slightly and try again.

1 each · Masonry drill bit, 6mm

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1 pack · Wall plugs, 6mm

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1 pack · Screws, 4x40mm

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AB-06Fixing into a timber studOnce you've confirmed timber with your pilot hole test, drill a 2mm pilot hole into the centre of the stud - off-centre risks splitting the narrow edge. Drive a 4x40mm wood screw straight into the pilot hole through the bracket. Don't use a wall plug in solid timber; it just gets in the way and weakens the grip.

1 pack · Wood screws, 4x40mm

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AB-07Fixing into a metal studIf your pilot hole brought out shiny grey swarf, you have metal studs (common in flats and newer builds). Use a self-drilling metal stud screw or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor rated for metal track - never a plain plastic plug or an ordinary wood screw, which strips straight through 0.5mm steel. A vertical blind headrail is light, so a metal-stud fixing at each bracket is normally enough; if you're fitting an unusually wide or heavy blind, fix at least the end brackets into the stud itself rather than the plasterboard between studs.

1 pack · Self-drilling metal stud fixings

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AB-08Fixing into dot-and-dab plasterboardDot-and-dab has a gap of roughly 30-50mm between the plasterboard and the masonry behind it. Use a long fixing, typically a 60-75mm screw with a matching plug, that passes through the plasterboard and bites into the solid wall behind - a standard plug fixed only in the plasterboard will pull out under load. Drill slowly and stop once you feel the drill break through into the cavity, then continue into the masonry.

1 pack · Long masonry screws, 75mm

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1 pack · Wall plugs for cavity fixing

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AB-09Fixing into lath and plasterOld lath and plaster is brittle and easily cracked, so avoid heavy toggles. Find a solid timber lath or stud behind the plaster using your detector or by tapping for a solid spot, then drill a 2mm pilot hole and drive a 4x40mm wood screw through the bracket into the timber. If you can't find solid timber behind the mark, shift the bracket position slightly rather than relying on the plaster alone.

1 pack · Wood screws, 4x40mm

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AB-10Clip the headrail onto the bracketsOffer the headrail up to the fitted brackets and press or click it into place, following the manufacturer's clip design. Check it's level along its length with a spirit level before closing any retaining clips or screws. Give the track a firm tug to make sure every bracket is holding before moving on.

AB-11Hang the louvresHook each louvre carrier onto the track, spacing them evenly along its length. Slide the end carriers into position and snap in the track's end stops so the carriers can't run off the rail. Let each louvre hang free and check it drops straight without twisting.

AB-12Test and adjustRun the chain or wand control to check the louvres rotate and traverse smoothly. If the louvres are too long, unclip the bottom weights, trim to length following the maker's instructions, and refit the weights. Recheck operation across the full width before finishing.

AB-13Tidy upVacuum any drilling dust from the sill, floor and dust sheet, and wipe down the wall. Fold away the dust sheet and dispose of packaging. Give the blind a final once-over to check every bracket is tight and the track hangs level.

1 each · Vacuum cleaner use

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