Fit curtain tie-back hooks to a timber stud wall

Fit curtain tie-back hooks safely by checking your wall type first, then use the correct fixing for a secure, tidy result.

CT-01Plan the position of each hookDecide where each tie-back hook goes, usually 150-200mm out from the window frame on each side, at a height that lets the curtain sit open without dragging on the floor or sill. Hold the tie-back against the wall to check it looks right before marking with a pencil. Gather your tools now: pencil, tape measure, spirit level, drill, screwdriver, and a cable and pipe detector.

1 pack · Curtain tie-back hooks (pair)

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1 each · Tape measure

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1 each · Spirit level

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CT-02Work out what your wall is made ofTap the wall: a dull thud means solid brick or block, a hollow sound means plasterboard on a stud frame or dot-and-dab. For stud walls, run a magnet or stud detector across the marked area to find the line of screw heads that shows each stud, usually every 400-600mm. Drill a small pilot hole at your fixing spot: fine pale dust means timber, fine grey swarf means a metal stud, and a sudden drop after a firm skin means dot-and-dab over masonry. A slightly wavy surface with a hollow knock and a firm ridge every 400mm or so suggests lath and plaster, common in houses built before about 1930.

1 each · Stud detector or magnet

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1 each · Drill bit 2mm (pilot)

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CT-03Check for hidden cables and pipes before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere, not just in the usual safe zones, so scan every marked point with a cable and pipe detector first. Still treat the wall as if something is there, since detectors miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, behind metal-backed plasterboard, or outside the safe zones, and metal stud frames confuse cheap detectors further. Find your stopcock now, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns freely so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn off the water at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry water.

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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CT-04Fix into a timber studDrill a 2-3mm pilot hole in the centre of the stud. Drive a 4x40mm wood screw in most of the way, leaving 5-8mm proud to hang the tie-back's fixing plate on, or fit a screw-in cup hook rated for the load. A timber stud is the strongest point on a stud wall, so use one whenever it lines up with your marked position.

2 each · Wood screw 4x40mm

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2 each · Screw-in cup hook

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CT-05Fix into a metal studNever use a plain wall plug or an ordinary wood screw in a metal stud, as it strips straight through the thin 0.5mm steel. Use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor sized for your plasterboard thickness, usually 12.5mm, and rated for at least the light pull of a curtain. Drive it with a screwdriver, not a hammer, and check it feels solid before hanging anything on it.

2 each · Self-drilling metal stud fixing

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CT-06Fix into plasterboard between the studsIf your marked spot falls between studs, use a spring or gravity toggle rated for at least 5kg, or a self-drilling plastic toggle for lighter loads. Drill a hole to match the toggle size, push it through, and tighten until snug without overtightening, or it will spin in the hole. This holds a curtain tie-back's light, steady pull fine, but a stud fixing is always stronger if one is nearby.

2 each · Plasterboard toggle fixing

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CT-07Fix into solid brick or blockDrill a 6mm hole to a depth of 35-40mm with a masonry bit. Fit a matching wall plug, then drive a 4x40mm screw into it until snug. Wear safety glasses, as brick dust can fly back towards you while drilling.

1 each · Masonry drill bit 6mm

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2 each · Wall plug (rawlplug) 6mm

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2 each · Wood screw 4x40mm

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1 each · Safety glasses

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CT-08Fix through dot-and-dab plasterboard into the masonry behindDot-and-dab plasterboard sits on foam or mortar dabs, leaving a gap of roughly 10-40mm before you reach solid masonry. Use a long fixing, such as a 6mm plug with a 60-75mm screw, that passes through the void and grips in the masonry, not just the plasterboard. Drill slowly and mark the drill bit with tape at the right depth so you don't stop short in the void.

2 each · Wall plug (rawlplug) 6mm

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2 each · Long masonry screw 75mm

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CT-09Fix into lath and plasterLath and plaster is old, brittle plaster on thin timber strips, and it cracks easily if you drill or hammer carelessly. Use a bradawl to find a lath, then drill a fine pilot hole and drive a 4x40mm screw slowly by hand so you don't shatter the plaster around it. If the plaster feels soft or crumbly, use a toggle fixing instead to spread the load over a wider area.

1 each · Bradawl

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2 each · Wood screw 4x40mm

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2 each · Plasterboard toggle fixing

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CT-10Fit the hooks and testHook or screw the tie-back fitting onto your chosen fixing on each side of the window. Loop the curtain through and pull gently to check both fixings hold firm with no movement or crumbling around them. Use a spirit level or eye it against the window frame to check both hooks sit level.

1 each · Spirit level

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CT-11Tidy upVacuum dust and any plaster or brick debris from the sill and floor. Wipe the wall down and check nothing has been left loose. Bag up any leftover fixings and label them for next time.

1 each · Vacuum cleaner

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1 each · Dust sheet

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