Fit curtain tie-back hooks to a dot-and-dab plasterboard wall — HomeGraft

Fit a pair of curtain tie-back hooks either side of your window, choosing the right fixing for your wall.

AB-01Gather your tools and tie-back kitBuy a pair of curtain tie-back hooks and check what fixings come in the pack. Most kits only include wall plugs for masonry, so you may need extra fixings depending on your wall type. Lay out a dust sheet under the window before you start.

1 pack · Curtain tie-back hook set (pair)

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1 each · Pencil

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1 each · Tape measure

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1 each · Small spirit level

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1 each · Dust sheet

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AB-02Mark the two hook positionsTie-back hooks usually sit about two-thirds of the way up the curtain, roughly 1400-1600mm from the floor, but check against your own curtains first. Mark one point on each side of the window, then use the spirit level to check both marks line up at the same height. Measure out from the window frame so both hooks sit the same distance from the glass.

AB-03Check for cables and pipes before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a wall, not just in the zones you'd expect. Run a detector over both marked spots, but still treat the wall as if something could be there — detectors miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, or behind metal-backed plasterboard. Find your stopcock now, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns freely. If you have any doubt, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and know you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe.

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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AB-04Work out what your wall is made ofKnock on the wall near your mark. A dull, solid thud means brick or block. A hollow drum sound means plasterboard — tap either side of the mark to feel for a firmer spot, which is a timber or metal stud. On dot-and-dab plasterboard, press gently; you'll feel a slight give and hear a faint change in sound where the dabs of adhesive are missing behind the board. Drill a 3mm pilot hole at the mark: fine pale dust means timber stud or masonry, grey plaster dust with a hollow feel means plasterboard, and bright metal swarf means a metal stud.

1 each · 3mm drill bit

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AB-05Fix into solid brick or blockDrill a 6mm hole to 40mm deep using a masonry bit, keeping the drill level. Push in a 6mm wall plug until it's flush with the wall, then drive the hook's screw in until the plug grips and the hook sits tight against the wall.

1 each · 6mm masonry drill bit

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2 each · 6mm wall plug

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2 each · 40mm wood screw

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AB-06Fix into dot-and-dab plasterboardDot-and-dab plasterboard is stuck to the masonry with blobs of adhesive, leaving gaps of air behind the board. A short screw and plug will only grip the thin board and pull out under load. Drill through the plasterboard and the void behind using a 6mm masonry bit to a depth of 60-75mm, fit a long wall plug that reaches the brick or block, then drive in a matching long screw so the hook is anchored to the masonry, not just the board.

1 each · 6mm masonry drill bit

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2 each · Long masonry wall plug (60-75mm)

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2 each · 70mm wood screw

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AB-07Fix into a timber studIf your pilot hole brought out pale wood dust, you've found a timber stud. Drill a 2.5mm pilot hole into the centre of the stud so the screw goes in straight, then drive a 45mm wood screw through the hook fixing until it's snug. There's no need for a plug in solid timber.

1 each · 2.5mm drill bit

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2 each · 45mm wood screw

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AB-08Fix into a metal studBright metal swarf from your pilot hole means a metal stud, common in flats and newer builds. Never use a plain wall plug or an ordinary wood screw here — they'll strip straight through 0.5mm steel. Use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor rated for the job. A curtain tie-back hook is light and mostly takes a sideways pull, so this fixing is fine for it, but a metal stud alone won't hold anything heavier or anything that pulls away from the wall — for that you'd need a timber noggin fitted between the studs or a fixing through to the masonry behind.

2 each · Self-drilling metal-stud fixing

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AB-09Fix into lath and plasterLath and plaster walls have thin timber strips nailed behind old plaster, which can be soft and prone to crumbling. Drill a small pilot hole carefully and check if you've hit a lath or stud behind — if you have, use a 40mm wood screw straight into the timber. If you're between laths, use a spring toggle or plasterboard-style fixing sized for the plaster thickness, and drill slowly to avoid cracking the old plaster around the hole.

2 each · Spring toggle fixing

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2 each · 40mm wood screw

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AB-10Fit the hooks and testHang the curtain hook onto its fixing and check it sits flush and level using your spirit level. Pull the curtain back into the tie-back position and give the hook a firm tug to check it holds without moving. Adjust the second hook to match if the heights look uneven.

AB-11Tidy upVacuum up any dust or plaster debris from the sill and floor. Wipe down the wall around each hook with a damp cloth. Fold away the dust sheet and put spare fixings somewhere you'll find them again.

1 each · Vacuum cleaner

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