Fit curtain tie-back hooks to a metal stud wall — HomeGraft

Fit curtain tie-back hooks safely, checking your wall type first and steering well clear of hidden cables or pipes.

CT-01Plan the position of your hooksHold the curtain back with your hand to find a natural, comfortable point, usually a third to halfway up the window. Mark this spot lightly in pencil on both sides, then check with a tape measure that both marks are the same height and distance from the window frame.

1 each · Pencil

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1 each · Tape measure

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CT-02Work out what's behind the wallRun a detector over the marked area and along the wall to find the line of screw heads that shows where the studs are. A hollow sound between studs with a solid knock on the stud itself confirms a stud wall. To tell timber from metal, try a magnet near the stud line, or drill a tiny pilot hole: fine pale dust means timber, grey metal swarf means a steel stud. If there's no hollow sound at all, you likely have solid brick, block, or dot-and-dab plasterboard over masonry.

1 each · Cable, pipe and stud detector

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1 each · Small magnet

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CT-03Check for cables and pipes before drillingCables and pipes can run almost anywhere, and detectors miss them if they're deep, in metal conduit, behind metal-backed plasterboard, or a metal stud frame is confusing the reading. Find your stopcock, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns before you start. If you have any doubt about what's behind the wall, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling.

CT-04Choose the right fixing for your wallInto a timber stud, use a wood screw driven into the centre of the stud, no plug needed. Into a metal stud, use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a small toggle rated for the weight; never use a plain plastic plug or an ordinary wood screw, as both strip straight through 0.5mm steel. Into plasterboard between studs, use a toggle or hollow-wall anchor rated for the load. Into solid brick or block, drill a 6mm hole 40mm deep and use a wall plug with a matching screw. Through dot-and-dab plasterboard, use a fixing at least 50-60mm long so it reaches the solid masonry behind, not just the plasterboard skin.

2 each · Self-drilling metal-stud fixings

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2 each · Wood screws, 40mm

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2 each · Plasterboard toggle fixings

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2 each · Wall plugs and screws, 6mm

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2 each · Long dot-and-dab fixings, 60mm

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CT-05Drill the pilot holeFit the correct drill bit for your fixing and wall type. Drill straight and steady, easing off once you feel the resistance change, which usually means you've gone through the plasterboard or plaster skin. Stop immediately and reassess if you feel unexpected resistance or hit something metal that isn't the stud.

1 each · Cordless drill

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1 each · Masonry or metal drill bit, matched to fixing

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CT-06Fit the anchor and hookInsert the toggle, plug, or self-drilling fixing as directed on the packaging. Drive the screw in fully but don't overtighten, especially into a metal stud, where too much force can strip the fixing. Slide or screw the curtain tie-back hook onto the fixing.

1 pack · Curtain tie-back hooks (pair)

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1 each · Screwdriver

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CT-07Fit the second hook and check levelRepeat the same process on the other side of the window. Use a spirit level or measure from the floor to check both hooks sit at the same height, so the curtains hang evenly when tied back.

1 each · Spirit level

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CT-08Test and tidy upLoop the curtain over both hooks and pull gently to check the fixings hold firm with no movement in the wall. Wipe away any dust and vacuum up drilling debris from the floor and windowsill.

1 each · Dust sheet

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