BATHROOMS

Level and support a bath that flexes

Stop a wobbly bath by levelling its feet, packing them, and fixing a solid wall support batten in one bathroom session.

LB-01Clear the room and protect the floorLay dust sheets on the bathroom floor and clear anything you'll need out of the way. Undo the screws or clips holding the bath panel and lift it off to expose the feet and frame underneath. Keep the panel fixings safe in a small pot so you don't lose them.
1 each · Dust sheet
LB-02Work out what's making the bath flexPress down firmly along the rim, or get in carefully, and feel where the movement is coming from - the middle, one end, or where it meets the wall. Check whether every adjustable foot is actually touching the floor, whether the support frame or cradle is cracked, and whether the rim has come away from a wall support batten. This tells you exactly what to fix.
LB-03Work out what's behind the wall before you drillIf the bath needs a wall support batten fitted or refitted, you'll be drilling into the wall behind it. Run a stud detector or a strong magnet across the wall - a line of regularly spaced screw heads under the plasterboard marks a stud. Tap the wall: a dull, solid knock is masonry or dot-and-dab, a hollow sound between studs means a timber or metal stud wall. Drill a small 3mm pilot hole in an unseen spot - pale dust means timber, fine grey swarf means metal, and gritty dust with no fibres means solid masonry.
1 each · Stud detector
1 each · 3mm drill bit
LB-04Drill and fix the support batten safelyCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a wall, not just the usual safe zones, and a detector can miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, or behind metal-backed board - a metal stud frame confuses cheap detectors further. Before drilling, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you're at all unsure what's behind the wall, isolate the electrics at the consumer unit and turn the water off at the stopcock first. On solid brick or block, drill an 8mm hole 40mm deep and use a wall plug with a 5x60mm screw. On a timber stud, find its centre and drive a 5x60mm wood screw straight in with a pilot hole. On a metal stud, use a self-drilling metal-stud screw or a toggle fixing - never a plain wall plug or wood screw, which strips straight through 0.5mm steel. On dot-and-dab, use a 60-75mm fixing long enough to reach the solid masonry behind the plasterboard and adhesive dabs. A bath batten takes a real pulling load every time someone gets in or out, so a metal stud or plasterboard alone will not hold it - fix through to a timber stud, through to the masonry behind on dot-and-dab, or add a timber noggin between the studs first.
1 each · Masonry drill bit 8mm
1 pack · Wall plugs (Rawlplug) 8mm, pack of 10
1 box · Wood screws 5x60mm, box
1 pack · Self-drilling metal stud fixings, pack
1 pack · Toggle fixings, pack
1 pack · Long frame fixings 75mm, pack
1 metre · Timber batten 18x38mm
LB-05Level the bath on its feetRest a spirit level along the length of the bath rim, then across the width. Turn the threaded feet up or down, by hand or with a spanner, until the bubble sits dead centre both ways. Recheck all four corners - a bath can look level in the middle and still rock on one foot.
1 each · Spirit level
1 each · Adjustable spanner
LB-06Pack and secure the feet to the floorOnce level, pack any gap under each foot with a plastic shim or timber off-cut so it can't work loose. Where a foot sits over a floor joist, screw it down through its pre-drilled holes with 40mm wood screws. If a foot falls between joists, fit a timber noggin under the floor first rather than screwing into thin floorboard alone.
1 pack · Plastic packers, pack
1 metre · Timber noggin 50x50mm
1 box · Wood screws 40mm, box
LB-07Fit the bath rim onto the wall battenLower the bath back so the rim sits fully on the batten or bracket you've just fixed. Run your hand along the join to check it's flush the whole length with no gaps. Press down at each end and in the middle - it should feel solid, with no give at all.
LB-08Test before you close anything upFill the bath and get in if you can, so it's loaded properly. Check for any rocking, movement, or new gaps at the wall or floor. Sort out anything that still moves now - it's far harder to reach once the panel is back on.
LB-09Reseal the edge if it's movedIf the bath has shifted at all, the old sealant bead against the wall tiles may have cracked. Cut out any cracked silicone with a scraper and clean the joint. Once you're sure the bath is stable, run a fresh bead of bathroom sealant along the gap.
1 each · Sealant scraper
1 tube · Bathroom silicone sealant
LB-10Refit the panel and tidy upScrew or clip the bath panel back on using the fixings you set aside earlier. Wipe down the bath and surrounding area, then pick up the dust sheets and bin any offcuts or packaging.
1 pack · Bath panel clips, pack

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