Fit a bath screen to a solid brick or block wall

Fit a hinged or fixed bath screen to a solid brick or block wall with the right masonry fixings and a neat seal.

BS-01Prepare the room and check your kitClear everything off the bath and lay a dust sheet along the wall you're working on. Unbox the bath screen and lay out every part against the instructions – wall channel, glass panel, brackets, screws and end caps. Check the bath is clean and dry where the screen will sit, and remove any old screen or curtain rail first.

1 each · Bath screen kit

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1 each · Dust sheet

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BS-02Work out exactly what the wall is made ofTap the wall where the screen will fix. A solid, dense sound with no give means brick or block. A hollow sound everywhere, or a hollow sound that turns solid every 400-600mm, points to plasterboard on studs or dot-and-dab instead – the fixing method is different, so check this before you mark anything. A magnet dragged along the wall will grip screw heads in a line over timber or metal studs; a small pilot hole bringing out grey brick dust or grit confirms solid masonry, pale timber dust confirms a timber stud, and fine grey metal swarf confirms a metal stud.

BS-03Mark and level the fixing positionsHold the wall channel in place against the bath edge and use a spirit level to get it dead vertical. Mark the fixing holes through the channel with a pencil, then double-check the marks line up with the tile grout lines where possible – it's much easier to seal a hole in grout than in the middle of a tile. Stick a strip of masking tape over each mark to stop the drill bit skating on the glazed tile surface.

1 roll · Masking tape

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1 each · Pencil

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BS-04Drill the fixing holesCables and pipes can run almost anywhere behind a bathroom wall, including up to taps and shower valves. Run a detector over each mark, but still treat the wall as if something is there until you've drilled a shallow test hole and proved it isn't – detectors miss deep cables, cables in metal conduit, and anything behind metal-backed board. Before you drill, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, and if you have any doubt at all, turn the water off at the stopcock before you go any deeper. On tiles, start with a tile bit on slow speed to get through the glaze, then switch to a masonry bit sized to your wall plug and drill on hammer action to the depth marked with a strip of tape on the bit – typically 45-50mm for a standard bath screen fixing.

1 each · Tile drill bit 6mm

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1 each · Masonry drill bit 6mm

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BS-05Fit the right fixing for your wallIn solid brick or block, push in a wall plug that matches your drill size (a 6mm plug in a 6mm hole) until it's flush, then drive in the screw supplied with the kit. If your wall turned out to be a timber stud, drive the screw straight into the centre of the stud with no plug needed; if it's a metal stud, use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor – never a plain plastic plug or an ordinary wood screw, as both strip straight through 0.5mm steel. On dot-and-dab plasterboard, use a fixing long enough to pass through the board and the adhesive dabs and bite into the masonry behind, usually 60-75mm; on lath and plaster, aim for the timber stud behind the lath where you can, or use a long toggle fixing rated for the weight if you can't. A bath screen gets leaned on and pulled every time someone opens it, so a metal stud or plasterboard alone is not enough on its own – if that's what you've got, fix through to the masonry behind or fit a timber noggin between the studs first.

1 pack · Wall plugs 6mm (pack)

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1 pack · Metal-stud toggle fixings (pack of 4)

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BS-06Fix the wall channelScrew the wall channel into your drilled and plugged holes, checking with the spirit level as you go that it stays vertical. Tighten the screws firmly but don't overtighten plastic plugs, as this can crack the surrounding tile. Give the channel a firm tug once fixed to make sure it doesn't move.

1 each · Screwdriver or drill driver

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BS-07Fit the glass panelSlot the glass panel into the wall channel and secure it with the clamp screws or bolts supplied, following the kit instructions for torque or tightness. If the screen is hinged, check it swings smoothly and closes flush against the bath without catching. Fit any end caps or trim pieces to cover the fixings.

BS-08Seal the screen to the bath and wallRun a neat, continuous bead of sanitary silicone sealant along the join between the wall channel and the wall, and along the base of the screen where it meets the bath. Tool it smooth with a wet finger or sealant tool before it skins over. Leave it to cure fully as stated on the tube, usually 24 hours, before using the shower.

1 tube · Sanitary silicone sealant

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BS-09Test and tidy upOnce the sealant has fully cured, run the shower for a minute and check for any water escaping around the screen base or fixings. Wipe down the glass and tiles, peel off the masking tape, and clear away the dust sheet and any debris. Keep an eye on the seal for the first few uses to make sure it's holding.

1 each · Cloth

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