Put up a double curtain pole for curtains and nets on a timber stud wall

Fit a sturdy double curtain pole above your window, working safely and choosing the right fixing for your wall.

CP-01Gather your tools and materialsGet everything together before you start: pole and brackets kit, tape measure, pencil, spirit level, drill, and screwdriver. You'll pick the actual screws and wall plugs later, once you know what your wall is made of.

1 each · Double curtain pole and bracket kit

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1 each · Tape measure

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1 each · Spirit level (250-500mm)

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1 each · Pencil

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CP-02Decide the pole position and heightFor curtains that hang well and block draughts, the pole should extend 150-200mm beyond each side of the window frame. Mount it 100-150mm above the top of the frame, or higher if your curtains need to clear a deep pelmet or radiator. Mark the centre point of the window on the wall as your reference.

CP-03Mark the bracket positions with a level lineUse the spirit level to draw a level horizontal line at your chosen height. Measure out equally from the centre point for each bracket, keeping brackets no more than 600mm apart if the pole is long or the curtains are heavy. Mark each fixing hole with a pencil dot on the line.

CP-04Work out what the wall is made ofSolid brick or block feels hard and solid all over when you tap it. Plasterboard on studs sounds hollow between studs and solid on the stud line; run a detector or a magnet along the marked line to find the studs. Drill a small pilot hole at a marked point: timber dust means a timber stud, fine grey swarf means a metal stud. Metal studs are common in flats, new builds, and anything refitted since the 1990s. Dot-and-dab feels hollow like a stud wall but there's solid masonry behind an air gap; lath and plaster feels slightly springy with faint ridges under the plaster.

1 each · Stud and cable detector

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CP-05Check for hidden pipes and cables before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a wall, not just in the 'safe zones'. Use your detector, but still assume something might be there and drill carefully to prove it isn't — detectors miss deep cables, cables in metal conduit, anything behind metal-backed plasterboard, and they're less reliable near a metal stud frame. Before you drill, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns, so you can shut off the water fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit first.

CP-06Fix into solid brick or blockDrill with a masonry bit matched to your wall plug — typically 6mm for a No. 8 screw — to a depth of 40-50mm. Push in the wall plug, then drive the screw through the bracket into the plug. If a normal drill struggles, use a hammer drill or SDS drill, especially on old lime mortar or engineering brick.

1 each · Masonry drill bit 6mm

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4 each · Wall plugs (red, 6mm)

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4 each · Screws 4x40mm

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CP-07Fix into a timber studOnce you've found the centre of the stud, drill a 2mm pilot hole so the timber doesn't split. Drive a 4x40mm wood screw straight into the stud through the bracket — no wall plug needed. This is the strongest fixing on a stud wall, so use it for the bracket taking the most weight if you can.

4 each · Wood screws 4x40mm

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1 each · Pilot drill bit 2mm

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CP-08Fix into a metal studNever use a plain wall plug or an ordinary wood screw here — it strips straight through 0.5mm steel and won't hold. Use a self-drilling metal-stud screw, or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor rated for the weight of your pole and curtains. Curtains pull outward every time they're drawn, so if the bracket lands on plasterboard between studs, use a proper toggle fixing, not a light picture hook. For a heavy pole, a track, or full-length curtains, fix into the metal stud itself rather than the plasterboard alone.

4 each · Self-drilling metal-stud screws

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4 each · Toggle-type hollow-wall anchor

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CP-09Fix through dot-and-dab plasterboardBehind dot-and-dab there's an air gap of 10-50mm before you reach the solid masonry. Use a fixing long enough to pass through the plasterboard and gap and still bite 30-40mm into the brick or block — usually a 60-75mm screw with a matching long plug. A short standard plug only grips the plasterboard and will pull straight out under the weight of curtains.

4 each · Long fixing screws 75mm

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4 each · Long wall plugs (matched to screw)

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CP-10Fix into lath and plasterLath and plaster walls have thin timber strips nailed across the studs, covered in old lime plaster that crumbles easily. Find a lath or the stud behind it with your detector, drill a small pilot hole, and fix a screw into the timber, not just the plaster. Avoid heavy hollow-wall toggles here — they can crack the brittle old plaster around the hole.

4 each · Wood screws 4x40mm

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CP-11Fit the bracketsHold each bracket against its marked hole and drive the fixing home. Tighten firmly but stop as soon as it's snug — overtightening can crack plasterboard or old plaster. Check both brackets are level with your spirit level before fully tightening the second one.

CP-12Fit the pole and hang the curtainsSlide the curtain rings or track glide onto the pole before you lift it into place. Rest the pole in the bracket cups and secure any locking screw or clip. Hang the curtains and pull them across to check they run smoothly without catching.

CP-13Tidy upVacuum up plaster or brick dust from the floor and windowsill, and wipe down the wall around the brackets. Put any spare screws and plugs in a labelled bag for next time, and store offcuts safely.

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