Put up a double curtain pole for curtains and nets on a lath and plaster wall

Fit a sturdy double curtain pole above your window using fixings that match what is actually behind your plaster.

CP-01Gather your tools and materialsGet your double curtain pole kit, tape measure, pencil, spirit level, drill with masonry and wood bits, screwdriver, and a cable/pipe detector. Lay a dust sheet under the window. Check the pole is the right length for your window before you start — it should sit at least 150mm wider than the window frame on each side so curtains can stack back off the glass.

1 each · Double curtain pole with brackets

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1 each · Dust sheet

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CP-02Measure and mark the bracket positionsMark the centre line above the window, then measure out to where each bracket will sit. Hold the pole up and check the height clears the top of the frame by at least 50mm so curtains can open fully. Use a spirit level to mark both bracket positions at exactly the same height — even a small tilt is obvious once curtains are hanging.

CP-03Work out what is actually behind the plasterLath and plaster walls have a slight springy give when you press them and sound hollow with a dull knock over the timber laths. Solid brick or block sounds dense and solid. Plasterboard on studs sounds hollow between the uprights but solid at each stud. A shallow hollow sound with a thin, even skin usually means dot-and-dab. Don't assume — many older houses have had walls replastered over brick, or had plasterboard added later, so check each fixing point on its own merits.

CP-04Check for cables and pipes, and know your isolation pointsRun a detector over both bracket positions, but treat it as a warning, not a guarantee — detectors can miss cables that run deep, sit in metal conduit, or hide behind metal-backed plasterboard, and old lath and plaster walls confuse cheap detectors badly. Before you drill, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut off the water fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and don't drill directly above sockets or switches where cables commonly run vertically.

CP-05Fix into solid brick or block behind the plasterDrill a 7mm hole to 45mm depth for a standard wall plug, or check the plug packaging for the exact size. Push in a red or brown wall plug flush with the plaster, then drive in the screw provided with your pole kit. This is the strongest fixing you'll get, so use it if your lath and plaster wall turns out to have a brick or block skin behind the laths near the reveal.

4 each · Wall plugs (red/brown, masonry)

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4 each · Screws (supplied with pole kit or 40mm)

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CP-06Fix into a genuine lath and plaster wallDrill a small pilot hole first — if you hit solid resistance quickly and see fine brick or block dust, you've gone through a masonry backing and should switch to a standard plug and screw as above. If the hole stays soft with only plaster dust and no solid stop, you're fixing into laths and void, and a plain plug will crumble the old plaster. Use a long fixing such as a spring or snap toggle rated for the bracket's pull weight, or better, aim your bracket screws to land in a timber upright behind the laths where possible — tap gently along the wall to find the firmer, denser spot that marks a timber support.

4 each · Spring or snap toggle fixings (plaster-rated)

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CP-07Fix into plasterboard on timber studsFind the stud centre with a detector or by tapping for the solid sound, then confirm with a small pilot hole — timber dust means you're in the right spot. Drive a wood screw straight into the centre of the stud without a plug; timber holds a screw thread well on its own. Aim for both brackets to land on a stud if you can, even if it means shifting the pole slightly off-centre.

4 each · Wood screws (40-50mm)

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CP-08Fix into plasterboard on metal studsA pilot hole through a metal stud brings out fine bright metal swarf instead of timber dust — that confirms metal, not wood. Never use a plain plastic wall plug or an ordinary wood screw here; they strip straight through 0.5mm steel and the bracket will pull loose. Use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor rated for the weight instead. A curtain pole is light enough for these fixings, but if you ever hang something heavier or something that pulls away from the wall in use, get a timber noggin fitted between the studs first.

4 each · Self-drilling metal stud fixings

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CP-09Fix into dot-and-dab plasterboardDot-and-dab has a plasterboard skin with a gap of 10-40mm behind it before you reach the masonry wall. A short fixing will only grip the thin board and pull out under load. Use a long fixing — typically 60-75mm — sized to pass through the board and adhesive dabs and bite into the solid masonry behind, checking the packaging for the right drill bit size.

4 each · Long dot-and-dab fixings (60-75mm)

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CP-10Screw the brackets to the wallHold each bracket against its marked position and check it's still level before driving the screws home. Tighten firmly but don't overtighten into soft old plaster, as this can crack it. Give both brackets a firm tug once fixed to check they're solid before moving on.

CP-11Fit the pole and finialsThread on any curtain rings before fitting the pole if your kit needs them added this way. Rest the pole in the brackets, clip or screw it in place following your kit's instructions, then fit the decorative finials on each end to stop rings sliding off.

10 each · Curtain rings (if not pre-fitted)

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CP-12Hang curtains, test, and tidy upHang your curtains or nets and slide them fully open and closed to check the pole is level and runs smoothly. Vacuum up any plaster or masonry dust from the sill and floor. Pack away tools and wipe down the drill bits before storing.

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