WINDOWS & BLINDS

Put up a double curtain pole for curtains and nets on a dot-and-dab plasterboard wall

Fit a curtain pole safely and level, checking for cables and pipes, and using the right fixing for your wall.

CP-01Gather your tools and check the kitOpen the curtain pole kit and check you have two brackets, fixing screws and wall plugs, plus the pole and rings or eyelets. The plugs in the box are often too short for a dot-and-dab wall, so you may need longer fixings later. Get a cordless drill with a mix of drill bits, a pencil, tape measure, spirit level, screwdriver and a cable/pipe detector ready, and lay a dust sheet under the window.
1 each · Double curtain pole kit with brackets
1 each · Tape measure
1 each · Spirit level
1 each · Pencil
1 each · Dust sheet
1 each · Cable/pipe detector
1 each · Cordless drill/driver
CP-02Mark the pole height and centre lineA curtain pole usually sits 100-150mm above the top of the window frame, and extends 150-200mm past each side so the curtains clear the glass when drawn back. Find the centre of the window and mark it on the wall in pencil. Use a spirit level to draw a level horizontal line at your chosen height, running the full width the pole will cover.
1 each · Pencil
1 each · Spirit level
CP-03Mark the bracket positionsFor a pole up to about 1.8m, one bracket goes 150-250mm in from each end. For anything longer, add a centre bracket too, since dot-and-dab walls can't take the sag of an unsupported span. Measure out from your centre line, mark each screw hole with a pencil, and double check every bracket lines up with your level line before you drill anything.
1 each · Tape measure
1 each · Pencil
1 each · Spirit level
CP-04Check for cables and pipes before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere behind a wall, not just in the 'safe zones' people talk about. Run your detector over every marked point, but still treat the wall as if something is there until you prove otherwise — detectors miss deep cables, cables in metal conduit, anything behind metal-backed plasterboard, and they're easily confused near a metal stud frame. Find your stopcock now (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut the water off fast if you ever hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all about what's behind a mark, isolate that circuit at the consumer unit before you drill.
1 each · Cable/pipe detector
CP-05Work out exactly what's behind the plasterboardDot-and-dab plasterboard is stuck to solid brick or block behind with blobs of adhesive, leaving a gap of roughly 10-40mm — tap it and you'll hear a hollow drum sound with no regular pattern of solid spots. A timber stud wall sounds hollow between studs but solid every 400-600mm, and a magnet or detector will pick up a line of screw heads at those spacings; a small pilot hole into a stud brings out timber dust. A metal stud wall feels and sounds similar, but a pilot hole brings out fine grey steel swarf instead, and a magnet is drawn to the frame itself. Older houses may have lath and plaster instead of plasterboard — thin timber laths nailed behind lime plaster, with an uneven, slightly springy wall surface and no modern board joints.
1 each · Cable/pipe detector
CP-06Drill and fit the right fixing for your wallOn dot-and-dab, drill through the plasterboard and the air gap behind it into the solid masonry, then fit a long fixing (typically 75-100mm) with enough plug embedded in the brick or block to hold — a plain short wall plug will just sit in the void and pull straight out. On solid brick or block with no board, drill a 7mm hole 55mm deep, fit a red plastic wall plug and use a 50mm screw. On a timber stud, drill a 2mm pilot hole and drive a 45mm wood screw straight into the centre of the stud. On a metal stud, use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor rated for the load — never a plain plastic plug or an ordinary wood screw, which strips straight through 0.5mm steel; if the curtains are heavy, or the wall gets pulled on when curtains are drawn, fit a timber noggin between the studs first or fix through to the masonry behind instead. On lath and plaster, find the timber studs behind the laths (usually every 400mm) and fix into those with a 60mm screw, rather than relying on the plaster alone, which can crumble under load.
4 each · Long fixing/frame fixing for dot-and-dab, 75-100mm
4 each · Red plastic wall plugs (masonry)
4 each · Wood screws No.8 x 45mm
4 each · Metal-stud hollow-wall/toggle fixing
1 each · Masonry drill bit 7mm
1 each · Wood drill bit 2mm
CP-07Fit the bracketsScrew each bracket firmly onto its fixings, checking with the spirit level as you go. Tighten each screw fully but stop as soon as it's snug — overtightening into plasterboard can crack the surface or spin the fixing loose. Give each bracket a firm pull once fitted to check it's solid.
1 each · Screwdriver
CP-08Fit the pole and test it holdsRest the pole into the brackets and tighten any locking screws or clips underneath. Push and pull the pole gently to check every fixing is holding, especially at the ends where the weight of drawn curtains pulls hardest. If anything feels loose or moves in the wall, stop and refit that bracket before going any further.
CP-09Hang the curtains and tidy upThread the curtains or nets onto the pole through their rings or eyelets, then lift the pole back into the brackets. Sweep or vacuum up any masonry or plasterboard dust from the dust sheet and floor, and bag it for the bin rather than shaking it outside. Fold away the dust sheet and put your tools away.
1 each · Vacuum cleaner

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