HANGING & WALL MOUNTING

Put up a noticeboard or whiteboard on a metal stud wall

Plan the position, check for hidden cables and pipes, then fix your noticeboard securely to the wall using the right method for your wall type.

NB-01Plan the positionDecide where the noticeboard or whiteboard will sit, at a comfortable height and away from radiators, light switches and doorframes. Hold it up (ask someone to help) and lightly pencil-mark the top edge. Check there's enough flat wall for the whole board to sit against squarely.
1 each · Pencil
1 each · Tape measure
NB-02Identify your wall type, then check for cables and pipesWork out whether you have solid brick or block, plasterboard on timber studs, plasterboard on metal studs, dot-and-dab plasterboard, or lath and plaster — tap the wall, run a stud detector across it, and check what dust a small pilot hole brings out. Before drilling, sweep a cable and pipe detector over every fixing point, then still treat the wall as if something is there — detectors miss cables in metal conduit, behind metal-backed board, or outside the normal safe zones, and a metal stud frame confuses cheap detectors further. Find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut off the water fast if you hit a pipe. If in any doubt, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling.
1 each · Cable and pipe detector
1 each · Stud detector
NB-03Mark and level the fixing pointsHold the board in its final position and mark through the fixing holes, or measure the hole spacing and transfer it to the wall. Use a spirit level to check the marks run level across, not just measured up from the floor. Note where studs fall — they're usually 400mm or 600mm apart on centre — so you know which marks land on solid timber or metal and which fall on plasterboard alone.
1 each · Spirit level
1 roll · Masking tape
NB-04Fix into solid brick or blockDrill a 6mm hole to about 45mm depth with a masonry bit. Vacuum out the dust, push in a red plastic wall plug, and drive in a 40mm No.8 screw until it grips firmly. Repeat for each fixing point, checking each hole depth before inserting the plug.
1 each · Masonry drill bit 6mm
4 each · Red wall plugs
4 each · No.8 wood screws 40mm
NB-05Fix into a timber studDrill a 3mm pilot hole into the centre of the stud and drive a 40mm wood screw straight in — no plug needed. If your fixing points don't line up neatly with a stud, shift the board slightly or plan to use a plasterboard toggle fixing on the points that miss.
1 each · Pilot drill bit 3mm
4 each · Wood screws 40mm
NB-06Fix into a metal studMetal studs are common in flats, new builds and any recently refitted wall. A pilot hole in a metal stud brings out fine grey steel swarf, not wood dust — confirm this before fixing. Never use a plain wall plug or an ordinary wood screw here; both strip straight through 0.5mm steel. Use a self-drilling metal stud screw directly into the stud, or a hollow-wall toggle fixing rated for the board's weight if fixing lands between studs on plasterboard alone. A metal stud will hold a light noticeboard, but it won't hold a heavy or awkward whiteboard that pulls at the wall — for anything large, land at least two fixings on studs, or fit a timber noggin behind the board first.
4 each · Self-drilling metal stud screws
2 each · Hollow-wall toggle fixings
NB-07Fix into dot-and-dab plasterboardDot-and-dab plasterboard has an air gap of roughly 10-40mm before the solid masonry behind. Drill slowly and feel for the change in resistance as you pass through the gap. Use a long fixing, typically 60-75mm, that passes through the board and adhesive dabs to bite into the brick or block behind, or a dot-and-dab-rated hollow wall anchor if you can't reach solid masonry.
4 each · Long masonry screws 75mm
4 each · Dot-and-dab rated anchors
NB-08Fix into lath and plasterLath and plaster walls are common in older properties and crack easily. Find the timber laths behind with gentle tapping or a stud detector, and screw into them directly where you can. Where you can't land on a lath, use a spring toggle fixing sized for lath and plaster, which spreads the load and avoids blowing a bigger hole through the old plaster.
4 each · Spring toggle fixings
NB-09Hang the board and check it's secureLift the board onto the fixings, or hang it on the screws if it has keyhole slots on the back. Check it's level with a spirit level, then give it a firm push at each corner to confirm it's secure before letting go.
1 each · Spirit level
NB-10Tidy upSweep or vacuum up any drilling dust and dispose of masonry offcuts. Wipe down the wall and the board. Step back and check the board sits level and doesn't move when nudged.
1 each · Dust sheet

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