HANGING & WALL MOUNTING

Put up a noticeboard or whiteboard on a dot-and-dab plasterboard wall

Hang a noticeboard or whiteboard level and secure, after working out what is really behind your wall before you drill.

NB-01Gather your tools and pick the spotGet everything together before you start: detector, drill, drill bits, screwdriver, spirit level, pencil, tape measure and a dust sheet. Hold the board roughly where you want it and check it clears light switches, radiators and door swings, and sits at a comfortable height (around 1400-1500mm to the centre for most adults). Lay a dust sheet under the work area.
1 each · Dust sheet
1 each · Spirit level (600mm)
1 each · Pencil
1 each · Tape measure
NB-02Work out exactly what your wall isDot-and-dab is plasterboard glued to the brick or block wall behind it with foam or adhesive dabs, leaving a gap of roughly 20-50mm before you hit solid masonry. Run your detector over the area first, then tap across the wall in a grid: a dull, slightly hollow knock with a firmer thud every so often (where a dab sits) suggests dot-and-dab, an even hollow sound with regular clicks from a magnet or detector every 400-600mm suggests a timber or metal stud wall, and a solid, dense knock everywhere means solid brick or block with no board at all. If you're still not sure, drill a small 2-3mm pilot hole in an inconspicuous spot: timber dust means a stud, fine grey swarf means a metal stud, a short drill then sudden hard resistance means dot-and-dab over masonry, and old horizontal wooden strips felt through crumbly plaster mean lath and plaster.
1 each · Stud and cable detector
NB-03Check for cables and pipes, and know how to shut things offCables and pipes can run almost anywhere, not just in the 'safe zones' near sockets and switches. Sweep the area with your detector, but still treat every hole as if something might be there: detectors miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, behind metal-backed board, or outside the usual zones, and a metal stud frame can confuse cheaper detectors further. Before you drill anything, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut off the water fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and know where the stopcock is before cutting into anything that could carry water.
NB-04Mark and level your fixing pointsHold the board level against the wall using your spirit level and mark the top corners lightly in pencil. Measure the exact position of the fixing holes or hanging brackets on the back of the board, then transfer those measurements to the wall, checking with the level as you go. Use the board itself as a template where you can, holding it in place and marking through the fixing holes.
NB-05Drill and fit the right fixing for your wallFor dot-and-dab, drill through the plasterboard and the void behind it into the solid masonry using a 6mm masonry bit, checking your drill goes noticeably deeper before it hits solid material — the fixing needs to reach at least 40mm into the brick or block itself, so use a long fixing (typically 75-100mm) that spans the void, with a matching plug pushed fully into the masonry. For solid brick or block with no board, drill straight in with a 6mm masonry bit to 40-50mm depth and use a plug and screw of matching length. If the wall turns out to be a timber stud wall instead, drive a 4mm wood screw at least 40mm long into the centre of the stud with a pilot hole first. If it's a metal stud wall, never use a plain plastic plug or ordinary wood screw — they strip straight through 0.5mm steel — use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a hollow-wall toggle rated for the weight; a whiteboard is light, but if you're mounting anything heavier or that will get pulled on, fit a timber noggin between the studs first or fix through to the masonry behind. For lath and plaster, the old plaster is brittle and can crack, so drill gently through to the wooden laths or the joist behind and use a longer screw that bites into solid timber, not just the plaster skin.
4 each · Long masonry fixings (dot-and-dab, 75-100mm)
4 each · Wall plugs (red/brown, heavy-duty)
4 each · Metal-stud toggle fixings
4 each · Wood screws (4x40mm)
1 each · Masonry drill bit (6mm)
1 length · Timber noggin (if needed, 50x50mm)
NB-06Hang the board and check it's levelLift the board onto its fixings and give it a gentle tug to make sure it's holding properly before you let go fully. Check it's level with your spirit level along the top edge, and tighten any screws fully once you're happy with the position. Give it a firm push from the front to confirm it doesn't flex or pull away from the wall.
NB-07Tidy upBrush or vacuum up any dust and debris from drilling, especially plaster dust from lath and plaster or dot-and-dab walls. If you marked a test hole anywhere that isn't being used, fill it with a small amount of decorator's caulk or filler and leave it to dry. Fold away your dust sheet and dispose of any packaging.
1 each · Decorator's filler (small tube)

Some links may earn us a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Save this as a project

Back to all guides