Put up a noticeboard or whiteboard on a timber stud wall

Mark, drill and fix a noticeboard or whiteboard level and secure, whatever your wall is made of.

AB-01Pick the spot and check for hazardsChoose a height that suits how the board will be used, usually with its centre around 1400mm from the floor. Scan the area with a cable and pipe detector before marking anything, but treat it as a guide, not a guarantee — detectors miss deep cables, cables in metal conduit, and cables behind metal-backed plasterboard. Find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut off the water fast if you hit a pipe. If you're at all unsure what's behind the wall, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before you drill.

AB-02Mark the fixing pointsHold the noticeboard against the wall at the height you want, ideally with a helper. Use a spirit level to draw a level guideline, then mark where each mounting hole or keyhole slot falls on the wall. Double-check the marks against the board itself before you drill anything.

1 each · Pencil

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1 roll · Masking tape

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AB-03Work out what's behind each markRun a stud detector or a fridge magnet along the wall near your marks. A magnet that grips at regular intervals is picking up screw heads along a timber or metal frame; a hollow sound between those points means plasterboard with a gap behind it, not solid wall. Drill a small 2mm pilot hole at one mark: fine pale dust means timber, grey metallic swarf means a steel stud. Steel stud walls are common in flats, new-builds, and anywhere refitted from the 1990s onward, so don't assume timber just because the wall sounds hollow.

1 each · Stud detector

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AB-04Fit the right fixing for your wall typeTimber stud, fixing into the centre of the stud: drill a 3mm pilot hole and drive a wood screw straight in. Metal stud: never use a wood screw or plastic plug — they strip straight through 0.5mm steel — use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or hollow toggle rated for the weight. Plasterboard between studs, timber or metal frame: use a plasterboard toggle or hollow-wall anchor sized for the board's weight, not a plain wall plug. Dot-and-dab plasterboard over masonry: use a fixing long enough (typically 60-75mm) to pass through the board and dab layer and grip the brick or block behind, drilling in stages so you feel when you hit the masonry. Solid brick or block with no plasterboard: drill a 6mm hole to 40mm depth, fit a red plastic wall plug, and drive a 40mm screw. Lath and plaster: avoid the laths themselves, as screws just crack old plaster — find the timber joist or stud behind (usually at 400-450mm centres) and fix into that, or use a long fine-thread screw with a lath-rated hollow anchor if no joist is available.

4 each · Wood screws (40mm)

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4 each · Self-drilling metal-stud fixings

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4 each · Plasterboard toggle fixings

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4 each · Red plastic wall plugs (6mm)

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4 each · Long masonry screws (60-75mm) for dot-and-dab

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1 set · Drill bit set (2-8mm)

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AB-05Hang and level the boardLift the noticeboard onto the fixings, or drive the final screws through its mounting holes. Check it's level with a spirit level and adjust before fully tightening. Give it a gentle tug to make sure it's holding firm.

AB-06Tidy upVacuum up drilling dust and swarf straight away — metal swarf is sharp and works into carpet fibres. Wipe down the wall and skirting nearby. Bin the packaging and put spare fixings somewhere you'll find them again.

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