HANGING & WALL MOUNTING

Hang a dartboard on a lath and plaster wall

Fit a dartboard at the right height and level, checking safely for cables and pipes before you drill into your wall.

DB-01Gather your tools and pick your wallChoose a wall with at least 2.4m of clear floor space in front of it, so there's room to stand at the oche and throw. Move furniture out of the way and lay down a dust sheet. Get everything together before you start so you're not hunting for a tool with a drill running.
1 each · Cordless drill
1 each · Stud detector or strong magnet
1 each · Spirit level
1 each · Tape measure
1 each · Dust sheet
DB-02Mark the bullseye height and the throwing lineThe standard bullseye height is 1730mm from the floor. Measure up and mark this on the wall, then use the spirit level to make sure your mark is truly horizontal, not just measured on a slope in the floor. Measure out 2370mm from the face of where the board will hang and mark the throwing line (oche) with tape — this is the standard steel-tip distance.
1 each · Tape measure
1 each · Spirit level
1 each · Pencil
1 roll · Masking tape (for oche line)
DB-03Work out your wall type and check what's behind itTap the wall around your mark. Solid brick or block sounds dull and solid all over. Lath and plaster feels slightly springy and sounds hollow with a faint rattle — common in Victorian and Edwardian houses. Plasterboard on studs sounds hollow between fixing points roughly every 400-600mm; run a magnet or detector along to find the fixing line, then drill a small pilot hole at one point — timber dust means timber studs, fine steel swarf means metal studs. Dot-and-dab plasterboard sounds hollow with firmer patches every 300-600mm where adhesive dabs sit behind it. Before you drill anywhere, run your detector over the whole area, but still treat it as if a cable or pipe could be there — detectors miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, or behind metal-backed board, and a metal stud frame can confuse a cheap detector further. Find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut the water off fast if you ever hit a pipe.
1 each · Stud detector or strong magnet
1 each · Drill bit 3mm (for test hole)
DB-04Choose the right fixing for your wallSolid brick or block: drill with a 6mm masonry bit to 35mm deep, fit a 6mm wall plug and use a 40mm screw. Timber stud: drill a 3mm pilot hole into the centre of the stud and use a 40-50mm wood screw. Metal stud: never use a plain wall plug or an ordinary wood screw — it strips straight through 0.5mm steel — use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor rated for the board's weight. Dot-and-dab plasterboard: you need a fixing long enough to pass through the board, the adhesive dabs and the air gap into the masonry behind, usually 60-75mm, with a matching wall plug. Lath and plaster: fixing into a solid stud or joist behind the laths is best if you can find one; if not, use a spring toggle fixing rated for the load, long enough to open out behind the laths — a plain screw or plug can crack the old plaster and won't hold in thin timber laths. A dartboard is light, but the repeated impact of darts hitting it means a secure fixing matters more than usual, so don't rely on the weakest option if you have a choice.
2 each · Wall plugs 6mm (masonry)
2 each · Wood screws 40-50mm
2 each · Metal-stud toggle fixing
2 each · Long dot-and-dab fixing 75mm with plug
2 each · Spring toggle fixing (lath and plaster)
DB-05Drill and fit the fixingIf there's any doubt at all about what's behind the wall, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn the water off at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry water. Drill slowly and stop the moment you feel a change in resistance, hit something metal unexpectedly, or see anything other than plaster, brick or timber dust coming out. Fit your chosen wall plug, toggle or fixing following the method for your wall type, then drive the screw or bolt in until it's snug but not overtightened — overtightening can crack old plaster or crush plasterboard.
1 each · Drill bit sized to fixing
1 each · Screwdriver
DB-06Hang the dartboard and check it's levelLift the dartboard onto the fixing and let it settle fully into place. Use the spirit level across the board's edge or surround to check it's straight, and adjust the fixing if needed before it's under load from use. Give the board a firm push from the front and a gentle pull to make sure it doesn't shift or come away from the wall.
1 each · Spirit level
DB-07Tidy up and testVacuum up drill dust or debris and fold away the dust sheet. Throw a few darts to check the board holds firm and doesn't rock or slip on its fixing. Check the oche line is still clearly marked and clear of trip hazards.
1 each · Vacuum cleaner
1 each · Dust sheet

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