KITCHENS

Put up open kitchen shelving on a metal stud wall

Fit open kitchen shelves safely on any wall type, working out what's behind the plasterboard and using the right fixing for each.

KS-01Clear the area and gather your toolsMove anything off the worktop below the wall and cover it with a dust sheet. Get your shelves, brackets, spirit level, pencil, tape measure, stud/cable detector, drill, and the right fixings for your wall type. Check the shelf brackets are rated for the load you plan to put on them, including mugs, jars and pans.
1 each · Dust sheet
2 pair · Open shelving brackets (pair)
KS-02Mark the shelf line and check it's levelDecide the height and mark one end lightly in pencil. Use a spirit level to draw a level line along the wall to the other end. Hold the shelf up against the line to check spacing looks right before you commit to any marks.
1 each · Spirit level (600mm)
1 each · Pencil
KS-03Work out what's behind the wallRun a stud detector or magnet along the line to find the vertical studs, watching for a line of screw heads under the plasterboard. Tap between the marks: a hollow drum sound means plasterboard on studs or dot-and-dab, a dead thud means solid brick or block. If you're still not sure, drill a small 3mm pilot hole in an inconspicuous spot behind where a bracket will sit — timber dust means a timber stud, fine grey swarf means a metal stud, and a soft crumbly dust with a hard layer behind it means dot-and-dab over masonry. In an older kitchen with a lath and plaster wall, the surface will feel slightly springy and you may hit a hollow gap before hitting a thin timber lath.
1 each · Stud and cable detector
1 each · 3mm drill bit
KS-04Check for cables and pipes before you drillKitchens have cables and pipes running almost anywhere behind walls, especially near sockets, switches and the sink. Sweep the whole fixing area with your detector, but still treat it as if something might be there — detectors miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, behind metal-backed plasterboard, or outside the usual safe zones, and a metal stud frame can throw a cheap detector off completely. Find your stopcock now, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns freely so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and be ready to turn off the water at the stopcock before you go any deeper than a shallow pilot hole.
KS-05Mark your fixing pointsMetal studs and timber studs are normally spaced 300mm or 400mm apart, so measure along your level line to find the centres. Mark each bracket's screw holes on the wall, keeping brackets aligned to your level line rather than just to the studs. If a bracket falls between studs, you'll need a plasterboard-rated fixing at that point instead of a stud fixing.
1 each · Tape measure
KS-06Fit the brackets — method depends on your wallTimber stud: drill a pilot hole into the centre of the stud and drive in a 50-60mm wood screw. Metal stud: use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor rated for the load — never a plastic wall plug or plain wood screw, both strip straight through 0.5mm steel. Plasterboard between studs: use a toggle or hollow-wall anchor rated for the shelf's full loaded weight, not the empty weight. Dot-and-dab over masonry: use a fixing long enough to pass through the plasterboard and adhesive dabs and bite at least 30mm into the solid wall behind, typically 75-90mm long. Solid brick or block: drill with the correct masonry bit size for your plug (usually 6mm or 8mm), drill to the plug's stated depth plus 5mm, insert the plug, then drive the screw. Lath and plaster: avoid fixing into the lath itself — locate the timber stud behind it with your detector and fix into that, or use a long fixing into the masonry behind if there is no stud.
6 each · Wood screws (50mm)
6 each · Metal-stud self-drilling fixings
6 each · Hollow-wall toggle anchors
6 each · Masonry plugs and screws (75mm)
6 each · Rawlplug (6mm) with screw
KS-07Add a noggin if a metal stud won't take the loadA metal stud fixing alone won't hold heavy loaded shelving, especially if you plan to stack crockery or cookware, or if the shelf will get knocked or pulled as you use it. If your test shows metal studs and the load is more than light, open a small section of plasterboard between two studs, screw in a timber noggin across the gap using self-tapping screws into the metal studs, then patch the plasterboard before fixing your bracket into the new timber. Skip this step if you're fixing straight into timber studs or solid masonry.
1 each · Timber noggin (50x50mm, cut to size)
8 each · Self-tapping screws
1 each · Plasterboard patch offcut
KS-08Fit the shelf and check it's levelSit the shelf onto the fixed brackets and secure it according to the bracket's fixing method, usually small screws up through the bracket into the underside of the shelf. Check the shelf is level end to end and front to back, and that it sits flush against the wall with no rocking.
4 each · Small self-tapping screws (16mm)
KS-09Load test and tidy upAdd weight gradually, checking the brackets stay firm and the wall shows no cracking or movement around the fixings. Wipe down the shelf and worktop, vacuum up any dust, and dispose of any plasterboard offcuts. Fill any stray pilot holes with a dab of filler and touch up with matching paint once dry.
1 tube · Multi-purpose filler
1 small tin · Touch-up paint

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