Replace a cracked floor tile

Chip out a cracked floor tile, clear the old adhesive, then fit and grout a matching replacement safely.

RT-01Clear and protect the areaMove any furniture or rugs away from the tile and lay a dust sheet over the surrounding floor. Open a window if you can, since breaking out old adhesive makes fine dust. Sweep away any loose grit so you're working on a clean, visible crack.

1 each · Dust sheet

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RT-02Check for asbestos and pipework before you startIf the floor was tiled before 2000, the old adhesive or backing board can contain asbestos. Don't sand, grind or dry-scrape it — if you're not sure of the age, stop and get a sample tested rather than breaking it up. Run a cable and pipe detector over the area too, especially if you have underfloor heating, but still expect a pipe to be there even if it shows nothing — detectors miss plastic pipes and deep cables. Find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns before you start, so you can shut the water off fast if you nick a pipe.

RULES

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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KNOW THE RULES

Disturbing old asbestos-containing materials is covered by the Control of Asbestos Regulations 2012 — get it tested if you're unsure of its age, rather than breaking it up yourself.

RT-03Rake out the grout around the tileUse a grout rake or an old flathead screwdriver to scrape out the grout on all four sides of the cracked tile, right down to the subfloor. This frees the tile's edges and stops the crack spreading into its neighbours when you break it out.

1 each · Grout rake

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RT-04Break up the cracked tileDrill a few holes through the centre of the tile with a masonry bit to weaken it, then work a cold chisel and club hammer from the centre outward, angling the chisel toward the middle of the broken tile, not toward the edges or neighbouring tiles. Wear eye protection and gloves, as tile pieces are sharp. Stop straight away and shut off the stopcock or trip the relevant circuit if you strike a pipe or cable.

1 each · Cold chisel

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1 each · Club hammer

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1 each · Masonry drill bit

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RT-05Clear the old adhesive back to the subfloorChisel away the old adhesive bed until you reach a flat, firm subfloor. Vacuum up all dust and loose debris. Check the surface with your hand — a lump of dried adhesive left behind will stop the new tile sitting flush.

RT-06Dry-fit the replacement tilePlace the new tile in the gap with spacers on all sides, lining up the joints with the surrounding tiles. Lay a straight edge across the tile to check it sits flush — remove more adhesive if it's too high, or plan to add a bit extra if it's too low.

1 each · Replacement floor tile

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1 pack · Tile spacers

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RT-07Mix and spread the adhesiveMix flexible tile adhesive to a firm, buttery consistency and spread it onto the bare subfloor with a notched trowel, combing it into even ridges. If the tile is large, thick or natural stone, back-butter the tile itself too so it beds in with full contact.

1 small tub · Flexible tile adhesive

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1 each · Notched trowel

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RT-08Set the tile and leave it to curePress the tile into the adhesive with a slight twisting motion to bed it in fully. Fit spacers on all sides and check it's level and flush with a straight edge. Wipe off any excess adhesive from the joints straight away, then leave it undisturbed for at least 24 hours, or as long as the adhesive packet says.

1 each · Spirit level

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RT-09Grout the jointsRemove the spacers once the adhesive has cured. Mix the grout and press it into the joints with a grout float, working diagonally across the tile. Wipe off excess grout with the float before it sets hard.

1 small tub · Grout, colour-matched

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1 each · Grout float

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RT-10Clean up and finishWipe the tile surface with a damp sponge to remove any grout haze once it's touch-dry. Leave the grout to cure fully, usually 24 to 48 hours, before walking on it normally. Dispose of the broken tile and old adhesive waste in your household rubbish, not recycling.

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