Replace a fused spur faceplate

Learn to safely swap a fused spur faceplate, checking the wiring and wall fixings before restoring power.

FS-01Identify the circuit and switch it offWork out which circuit feeds the fused spur using your consumer unit labelling or by tracing the cable. Switch off the correct MCB or remove the fuse, and lock it off if your consumer unit allows this. Swapping a faceplate like-for-like isn't new wiring, so it's normally straightforward, but check the rules note below if the spur is in a bathroom.

RULES

1 each · Two-pole voltage tester

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KNOW THE RULES

Part P: a like-for-like faceplate swap on an existing circuit is not notifiable in England, as long as it's not in a bathroom or other special location and you're not changing the circuit. If it is in a bathroom, or you're unsure, get a registered electrician's opinion.

FS-02Prove it's dead and know your safety exitsTest your voltage tester on a known live source, then use it on the faceplate terminals to prove the circuit is dead before touching any wires - test the tester again afterwards. Find your stopcock now, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns, in case you ever nick a pipe drilling into this wall later. Cables can run almost anywhere, not just in the usual safe zones, and a cheap detector can miss deep cables or ones behind metal-backed board, so keep the circuit isolated at the consumer unit while you work if there's any doubt.

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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FS-03Remove the old faceplateUndo the two fixing screws holding the faceplate to the mounting box with a flat or Pozidriv screwdriver. Ease the faceplate away from the wall and support it - don't let it hang by the wires. Take a photo of the wiring before you disturb anything, so you can match it up later.

1 each · Screwdriver set

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FS-04Check the mounting box and work out your wall typeWiggle the mounting box - if it's firmly fixed, skip the next step. If it's loose, you'll need to refix it, so work out what's behind the wall first. Tap around the box: solid brick or block sounds dead and solid, a stud wall sounds hollow between studs and solid over a stud. Run a magnet or stud detector along the wall to find the line of screw heads, then drill a small 3mm pilot hole in an inconspicuous spot near the box - timber dust means a timber stud, fine grey swarf means a metal stud, and hitting a void before solid material around 50-75mm in usually means dot-and-dab plasterboard on masonry. Old lath and plaster feels springy and crumbles rather than boring cleanly.

1 each · Magnet or stud detector

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1 each · 3mm drill bit

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FS-05Fix the mounting box securely for your wall typeSolid brick or block: drill a 6mm hole 35mm deep, insert a wall plug, and use a 35mm woodscrew. Plasterboard on timber studs: drive a 35mm woodscrew straight into the centre of the stud. Plasterboard on metal studs: never use a wood screw or plain plastic plug, they strip straight through 0.5mm steel - use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing instead. Dot-and-dab plasterboard: use a 60-75mm fixing that reaches through the board into the masonry behind, or a hollow-wall toggle if you can't reach it. Lath and plaster: fix into a lath if you find one, otherwise use a plasterboard toggle fixing rated for hollow walls, since a plain screw can crumble the lath.

1 pack · Red wall plugs 6mm (pack)

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1 pack · 35mm woodscrews (pack)

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1 pack · Self-drilling metal stud fixings (pack)

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1 pack · Hollow-wall toggle fixings (pack)

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FS-06Wire the new faceplateMatch the new faceplate's terminals to your photo: earth (green/yellow) to the earth terminal, neutral (blue) to N, and line (brown) to L, feeding through the fuse holder. Check every terminal screw is tight and no bare copper shows outside the terminal. Fit a cartridge fuse rated for the appliance it feeds, usually 3A for a lamp or extractor fan, 13A for something like a washing machine or fridge.

1 each · Fused spur faceplate (13A)

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1 pack · Assorted cartridge fuses (pack)

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FS-07Refit the faceplateFold the cable neatly back into the box so nothing is trapped, then offer the faceplate up and refit the two fixing screws. Tighten until snug - don't overtighten, or you'll crack the faceplate or strip the fixing.

1 each · Faceplate fixing screws (usually supplied)

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FS-08Restore power and testSwitch the circuit back on at the consumer unit, then test the spur by switching on the connected appliance. Check the spur's own switch and neon indicator, if fitted, work correctly. If anything trips, switch off immediately and recheck your wiring before trying again.

FS-09Tidy upVacuum any dust from drilling, wipe down the wall and faceplate, and dispose of the old faceplate and packaging responsibly. Store any spare fixings and cartridge fuses somewhere you'll find them again.

KNOW THE RULES

Before you start: Which electrical jobs can I do myself? Part P explained

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