Restore an old parquet floor — HomeGraft

Sand back an old parquet floor, repair loose blocks, then seal it to bring back its original character safely.

PQ-01Clear the room and check for asbestos riskTake everything out of the room, including rugs, carpet and underlay. If the floor or the building dates from before 2000, the black bitumen adhesive under the blocks may contain asbestos. Do not lift blocks or dry sand until you've checked this — send a small sample to a UKAS-accredited asbestos lab, or bring in a licensed asbestos contractor if you're unsure.

RULES

1 each · Asbestos test kit (postal lab test)

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4 each · Dust sheets

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KNOW THE RULES

HSE guidance covers asbestos in old bitumen flooring adhesives. Disturbing it by sanding or prising up blocks can release fibres — get it checked before you touch the floor.

PQ-02Repair loose, lifting or missing blocksLever up any loose or damaged blocks with a bolster chisel, scrape off old adhesive, and glue them back down with wood flooring adhesive. Weight them down while the glue cures. Replace missing blocks with reclaimed ones of a matching size and timber. If you need to pin a block down with panel pins, be aware that cables and pipes — including underfloor heating pipes — can run just below the surface even in old floors; if in any doubt, isolate the electrics at the consumer unit before driving pins in, and know where your stopcock is (usually under the kitchen sink) in case you hit a pipe.

1 tube · Wood flooring adhesive (500ml)

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10 each · Reclaimed parquet blocks (matching)

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1 box · Panel pins (25mm)

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1 each · Bolster chisel

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PQ-03Punch down nails and pinsGo over the whole floor and use a nail punch to sink any protruding nail or pin heads below the surface. This stops them tearing the sanding belt or damaging the sander drum. Check the edges and corners carefully, as old fixings are often proud here.

1 each · Nail punch

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PQ-04First sanding pass with a drum sanderHire a drum floor sander and fit a coarse 40-grit belt. Keep the sander moving at all times — never let it rest in one spot, as it will gouge the wood. Work diagonally across the parquet pattern first to level it, then go over it again running with the main grain direction.

1 day · Drum floor sander (1-day hire)

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4 each · Sanding belts, 40 grit

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PQ-05Sand the edges and cornersUse an edging sander with the same 40-grit paper to reach the areas the drum sander can't, close to skirting boards and in corners. Work in small circles and blend into the main floor area so there's no visible line.

1 day · Edging floor sander (1-day hire)

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6 each · Edging sander discs, 40 grit

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PQ-06Fill gaps and holesMix wood filler with fine sanding dust from the floor to match the colour. Press it into any gaps between blocks, old nail holes, or splits, and leave it slightly proud. Let it cure fully before the next sanding pass.

1 tub · Wood filler (250g)

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1 each · Filling knife

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PQ-07Medium sand to blend the fillerFit an 80-grit belt to the drum sander and edging sander and go over the whole floor again, working with the grain. This levels the filler flush with the surrounding wood and removes scratches left by the coarse grit.

4 each · Sanding belts, 80 grit

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6 each · Edging sander discs, 80 grit

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PQ-08Fine sand for a smooth finishFinish with a 120-grit belt on both sanders. This is your final pass, so take your time and check the floor at a low angle in good light for any missed scratches or high spots before you stop.

4 each · Sanding belts, 120 grit

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6 each · Edging sander discs, 120 grit

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PQ-09Vacuum and clean the floor thoroughlyVacuum the whole floor, including gaps between blocks and the skirting line. Wipe over with a tack cloth to lift the last of the fine dust. Any dust left behind will show up under the finish, so take your time here.

3 each · Tack cloths

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1 pack of 5 · FFP3 dust masks

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PQ-10Apply stain, if you're using oneThis step is optional. Apply wood stain evenly with a lambswool applicator or brush, working in the direction of the grain in small sections. Wipe off any excess with a lint-free cloth before it dries to avoid dark patches, and let it dry fully before sealing.

1 tin · Wood stain (2.5L)

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1 each · Lambswool applicator

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1 pack · Lint-free cloths

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PQ-11Apply the first coat of finishApply hardwax oil or floor varnish with a lambswool applicator, working in thin, even coats along the grain. Once dry, lightly key the surface with a fine maroon abrasive pad and vacuum off the dust before the next coat.

1 tin · Hardwax oil or floor varnish (2.5L)

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1 pack · Fine abrasive pads (maroon)

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PQ-12Apply final coat and let it cureApply a second, and if needed a third, coat of finish the same way. Leave the room well ventilated and keep foot traffic off the floor for at least 24 hours, then avoid rugs or heavy furniture for a few days while it fully cures. Refit skirting boards and furniture once it's completely hard.

2 each · Applicator pad refills

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