Fit a bath screen to a dot-and-dab plasterboard wall

Fit a bath screen safely on dot-and-dab, stud or solid walls, using the right fixing and checking for pipes and cables first.

BS-01Unpack the kit and check the fitUnpack the bath screen and check you have both wall brackets, all fixing screws, and the seal strips. Measure the bath's recess width at the top and bottom, since bath edges are rarely perfectly parallel. Lay your tools out within reach so you're not climbing in and out of the bath while working.

1 each · Bath screen kit

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1 each · Tape measure

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BS-02Find your stopcock and consumer unit firstBefore you drill anything, find your stopcock - usually under the kitchen sink - and check it turns freely. If you hit a pipe while drilling, you need to shut the water off fast. Also locate your consumer unit so you know which switch to flip if you hit a cable.

BS-03Mark the screen's positionHold the screen, or its packaging, against the bath edge and mark where each bracket sits. Use a spirit level to draw a true vertical line, not just one that looks straight, as tiled walls are rarely dead level. Mark each fixing hole with a pencil dot, checking spacing against the manufacturer's instructions.

1 each · Spirit level

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1 each · Pencil

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BS-04Work out what's behind the tileTap the wall lightly across your marks. A dull, hollow sound with a slight give usually means dot-and-dab plasterboard over masonry. A regular hollow note every 400mm to 600mm, with screw heads showing under a detector, means a timber or metal stud wall. Run a magnet over the marks - it grips at regular intervals over metal studs but not timber - and if still unsure, drill a 3mm pilot hole: pale dust means timber, grey swarf means steel, and solid resistance all the way through means masonry.

1 each · Magnet or stud detector

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BS-05Check for hidden pipes and cablesRun a cable and pipe detector over every mark before you drill, but don't trust it completely - detectors miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, behind metal-backed board, or outside the normal safe zones, and metal stud frames confuse cheap detectors further. Drill slowly and stop the moment you feel a change in resistance. If you're at all unsure, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit and turn off the water at the stopcock before going any further.

BS-06Drill the fixing holes through the tileUse a tile bit to start each hole, running the drill slowly with no hammer action so the tile doesn't crack. Once through the glaze, switch to the bit size given in your fixing instructions and finish drilling into the wall behind. Keep the drill square to the wall - a wandering hole weakens the fixing.

1 each · Tile drill bit

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1 set · Masonry drill bit set

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BS-07Fit the right fixing for dot-and-dab or solid masonryFor dot-and-dab, use a long fixing - typically 70-90mm - that passes through the plasterboard and the adhesive dabs to grip the solid masonry behind; a frame fixing or resin sleeve anchor works well. For solid brick or block with no dot-and-dab, drill a 6-8mm hole and use a matching wall plug with a screw sized to fit. Drive the fixing until it feels solid, then stop - overtightening can crack tiles or crush the plug.

4 each · Frame fixings/resin sleeve anchors, 70-90mm

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1 set · Wall plugs and screws, brown

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BS-08If you find a timber or metal stud insteadIf a mark lands on a timber stud, use a wood screw driven at least 40mm into the centre of the stud, never relying on the plasterboard alone. If you find a metal stud, never use a plain plastic plug or an ordinary wood screw - it strips straight through 0.5mm steel; use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor rated for the load. A bath screen pulls outward every time it's opened, so a stud fixing alone often isn't enough long-term - fit a timber noggin or pattress between the studs before fixing, or run a longer fixing through to the masonry behind if there is any.

4 each · Self-drilling metal stud fixings

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1 length · Timber noggin, 38x50mm

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4 each · Wood screws, 40mm

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BS-09Fit the wall bracketsHold each bracket against its marks and drive the fixings home, checking with a spirit level as you go that the bracket sits square. Don't fully tighten until both brackets are in place, so you can make small adjustments. Once both are correctly positioned, tighten fully.

1 each · Screwdriver

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BS-10Hang and level the screenLift the screen into the brackets and check it's plumb with a spirit level, adjusting the brackets slightly if needed. Fit any locking screws or caps supplied to stop the screen lifting out. Open and close the screen fully to check it swings clear of the bath and taps.

BS-11Seal around the screenRun a neat bead of sanitary silicone sealant along the join between the screen's frame and the bath edge, and along the wall edge where the screen meets the tiles. Smooth it with a wet finger or sealant tool for a clean finish. Leave it to cure for the time stated on the tube, usually 24 hours, before using the shower.

1 tube · Sanitary silicone sealant

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1 each · Sealant gun

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BS-12Tidy up and testWipe down the tiles and bath to remove dust and silicone smears. Once the sealant has cured, run the shower briefly to check the screen keeps water in and there's no drip from the fixings. Check under the bath panel if you can, to make sure no water has crept behind.

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