Fit a bath screen to a timber stud wall

Fit a bath screen safely by checking your wall type first and using the right fixing for masonry, timber or metal studs.

BS-01Prepare the bathroom and check the kitLay a towel or dust sheet in the bath to catch screws and parts. Unpack the screen and check you have both wall brackets, all screws, seals and the fitting template. Read the manufacturer's instructions fully once before starting, because fixing centres and bracket types vary a lot between models.

1 each · Dust sheet or old towel

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1 each · Bath screen kit

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BS-02Work out what's behind the tilesBath screens fix near the end of the bath, and the wall there might be solid brick or block, dot-and-dab plasterboard, or a timber or metal stud wall. Run a stud detector or magnet over the fixing area, tracking any line of screw heads under the tiles, and tap along the wall to feel for a hollow sound between studs. If you drill a small pilot hole, fine timber dust means timber studs and fine grey swarf means metal studs.

1 each · Stud detector or fixings magnet

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BS-03Check your stopcock and think about safety before you drillFind your stopcock now, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns freely so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. Run a cable and pipe detector over your marks, but still expect something to be there and prove otherwise - detectors miss cables in metal conduit, behind metal-backed board, or outside the normal safe zones, and metal stud frames confuse cheap detectors further. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn the water off at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry water.

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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BS-04Mark and level the fixing lineHold the screen or template against the bath edge and use a spirit level to mark a true vertical line for each bracket. Mark the screw centres from the template rather than guessing, since brackets that sit even slightly out of line will make the screen bind or gap. Double-check both brackets line up with each other before you drill anything.

1 each · Spirit level

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1 each · Pencil or chinagraph marker

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BS-05Drill through the tile without cracking itStick a strip of masking tape over the mark to stop the drill bit skating, then start with a tile bit on slow speed and no hammer action until you're through the glaze. Once through the tile, switch to the correct bit for the wall behind - masonry bit for brick or block, wood bit for a timber stud, or the bit specified for your metal-stud fixing.

1 each · Tile drill bit

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1 roll · Masking tape

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BS-06Fit the right wall fixing for your wall typeSolid brick or block: drill to the depth marked on the plug packet, fit a wall plug, then a screw. Timber stud: drive a wood screw straight into the centre of the stud, no plug needed. Metal stud: use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle-type hollow anchor made for metal studs - never a plastic wall plug or ordinary wood screw, which will strip straight through 0.5mm steel. Dot-and-dab: use a fixing long enough to pass through the plasterboard and its air gap and bite into the solid masonry behind, not just the board.

1 pack · Wall plugs and screws (masonry)

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1 pack · Metal-stud self-drilling fixings

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1 pack · Long dot-and-dab fixings

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BS-07Reinforce the fixing if you're on a metal stud or thin boardA bath screen gets pushed, pulled and leant on every time it's used, so a metal-stud toggle on its own may work loose over time. If you found a metal stud or unsupported plasterboard behind the tiles, either fit a timber noggin between the studs before tiling is disturbed further, or fix through to the masonry behind instead. If you're not confident cutting into the wall to add a noggin, get a plasterer or carpenter to do this part.

1 metre · Timber noggin (50x50mm batten)

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BS-08Fit the wall bracketsScrew both brackets to the wall using the fixings you chose for your wall type, checking with the spirit level as you go. Tighten evenly - do not overtighten a metal-stud toggle, as this can crush the board.

BS-09Fit and align the screen panelSlot the glass panel into the brackets following the kit instructions, then check it hangs plumb with the spirit level. Open and close the screen fully to check it swings or slides smoothly and doesn't catch on the bath or tiles.

BS-10Seal around the screen and along the bath edgeMask off either side of the joint with tape, then run a neat, continuous bead of silicone sealant where the screen meets the wall and where it meets the bath. Smooth the bead with a wet finger or sealant tool, then peel off the tape while it's still wet.

1 tube · Silicone sealant (sanitary grade)

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BS-11Leave the sealant to cure before using the showerLeave the silicone to cure for the time stated on the tube, usually 24 hours, before running any water near it. After that, run the shower briefly and check for leaks at the wall fixings and along the sealant line.

BS-12Tidy upRemove the dust sheet and vacuum up any drilling dust or swarf, especially any metal filings if you drilled a metal stud. Wipe down the screen and check all screws are still tight.

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