Fit a bath screen to a metal stud wall

1 each · Pencil

BS-02Find your stopcock and check nearby electricsCables and pipes can run almost anywhere behind a bathroom wall, not just in the 'safe zones' you'd expect. Use a detector before you drill, but still treat the wall as if something is there until you prove otherwise - detectors miss cables in metal conduit, behind metal-backed board, or buried deep, and metal stud frames confuse cheap detectors further. Find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut off the water fast if you hit a pipe. If there's a light, extractor fan or shaver socket anywhere near your drilling line, isolate that circuit at the consumer unit first.

RULES

KNOW THE RULES

Bathrooms have strict electrical safety zones under the UK Wiring Regulations (BS 7671). If your drilling is anywhere near existing bathroom electrics, or you need to move a socket or light, get a qualified electrician - this kind of work may need Part P notification to your local authority.

BS-03Work out what's behind the tilesRun a stud detector or a magnet along the wall, tracking a vertical line of screw heads under the tiles - a tight, regular pattern usually marks a stud. Tap the wall: a dull solid sound is masonry or dot-and-dab, a hollow sound between studs is plasterboard, and a firm hollow sound in a regular rhythm suggests metal studs. Drill a small 2-3mm pilot hole in an inconspicuous spot to confirm - fine timber dust means a timber stud, bright metal swarf means a metal stud, and solid resistance with brick or block dust means masonry. If the drill passes through 10-15mm of board then meets a gap before solid material, you've got dot-and-dab.

1 each · Stud/metal detector

1 each · 3mm drill bit

BS-04Mark and level the fixing pointsHold the screen's fixing profile against the bath edge where it will sit, and use a spirit level to get it dead vertical - a bath screen even slightly off looks wrong and may not seal properly against the bath. Mark each fixing hole through the profile with a pencil, then double check they land on solid backing rather than in the gap behind a dot-and-dab wall.

1 each · Spirit level

1 roll · Masking tape

BS-05Drill through the tilesStick a small cross of masking tape over each marked point - it stops the tile bit skating off the glaze. Using a tile bit and no hammer action, drill slowly and straight through the tile only. Once through the tile, swap to the bit that matches what's behind - masonry bit for brick, block or dot-and-dab, or a plain HSS bit for timber or metal studs - and continue to the depth your fixing needs.

1 each · Tile drill bit, 6mm

1 set · Masonry drill bit set

1 set · HSS drill bit set

BS-06Use the right fixing for your wall typeSolid brick or block: drill to the depth on your wall plug packet (typically 40-50mm), fit the matching plug, and drive in the screen's screw. Dot-and-dab plasterboard: the board sits 10-15mm off the masonry on adhesive dabs with gaps between - drill through board and dab into the solid wall, then use a fixing long enough to bridge the gap and grip the masonry, typically 60-75mm total with a matching plug. Timber stud: if the point lands on a stud, drive a normal wood screw straight into its centre, no plug needed; if it lands between studs, use a toggle or hollow-wall anchor rated for the screen's weight. Metal stud: never use a plastic plug or ordinary wood screw - it strips straight through 0.5mm steel. Use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing, or a toggle if the point falls between studs. A bath screen gets leant and pulled on daily, so a metal stud alone is often not enough - fix at least one point through to a timber noggin or back to the masonry if you can. Lath and plaster: use a proper plasterboard or lath toggle, never a plain screw, as it will pull straight out of the crumbly lime plaster.

1 pack · Wall plugs (assorted sizes)

1 pack · Long fixings for dot-and-dab, 60-75mm

1 pack · Wood screws

1 pack · Self-drilling metal-stud fixings

1 pack · Hollow-wall toggle fixings

BS-07Fit the brackets and screenFit the wall brackets over your prepared fixings and screw them tight, checking the screen is still vertical with your spirit level as you go. Slot the glass or acrylic panel into the brackets and tighten the retaining screws evenly, so the panel doesn't rock.

BS-08Seal the screen to the bathRun a neat, continuous bead of silicone sealant along the join between the screen's base profile and the bath, and up the side edge against the tiles. Smooth it with a wet finger or sealant tool for a clean finish, then leave it to cure fully - check the tube for the exact time, usually 24 hours - before using the shower.

1 tube · Silicone sealant

1 each · Sealant gun

BS-09Test and tidy upOnce the sealant has cured, run the shower briefly and check for drips at the base or sides. Wipe away any dust or sealant smears from the tiles and bath, then turn the water and any isolated circuits back on. Dispose of tile dust and offcuts, and vacuum the floor.

1 each · Cloth or dust sheet