Fit a walk-in shower screen panel to a dot-and-dab plasterboard wall — HomeGraft

Fit a shower screen to a dot-and-dab wall safely, checking what's behind the board before you drill or fix anything.

SS-01Unpack and check the screen kitLay the panel flat on a blanket or the shower tray and check it against the packing list: glass panel, wall profile, floor channel, hinges or clamps, and fixing screws. Check the panel height and width against your opening before you do anything else — glass screens can't be trimmed. Read the manufacturer's fitting instructions, since fixing centres vary between makes.

1 each · Shower screen panel kit (glass, profile, hinges)

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1 each · Dust sheet

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SS-02Mark the fixing line on the wallSit the floor channel on the tray edge where it will finally sit, then hold the wall profile against the tiled wall and use a spirit level to mark a true vertical line. Mark the fixing hole centres from the profile onto the wall through the manufacturer's template or the profile itself. Double-check the panel will clear taps, tray lip and any shower valve before you drill anything.

1 each · Spirit level

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1 each · Pencil

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SS-03Work out what's behind the tilesMost bathroom walls onto an outside or party wall are solid brick or block with dot-and-dab plasterboard skimmed and tiled over the top — tap the wall and listen for a hollow, slightly springy sound rather than a dead thud. Run a stud detector or magnet over the marked line to rule out a stud wall behind the tiles, since bathrooms are sometimes stud partitions on timber or metal. A small pilot hole through the tile and board tells you more: soft plasterboard dust followed by a gap, then a harder resistance, means dot-and-dab over masonry.

1 each · Stud and cable detector

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SS-04Check for cables and pipes before you drillBathrooms often have cables and pipes running to lights, extractor fans and showers in places you wouldn't expect, and a detector can miss cables that are deep, in conduit, or behind metal-backed board. Find your stopcock now — usually under the kitchen sink — and check it turns freely, so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn the water off at the stopcock before drilling anywhere near visible pipework.

SS-05Drill and fix the wall profile — dot-and-dab wallDot-and-dab has a gap of roughly 10-20mm between the plasterboard and the solid wall behind, filled only with blobs of adhesive — a screw fixed into the board alone will eventually work loose under the weight and movement of a shower screen. Drill through the tile and plasterboard first with a masonry bit, feel for the void, then continue into the brick or block behind to a total depth that gives at least 40mm of fixing in solid masonry. Use a dot-and-dab-rated fixing (a long sleeve anchor or frame fixing sized for the void) rather than a standard wall plug, since a normal plug will just spin in the gap.

1 pack · Dot-and-dab wall fixing kit (long sleeve anchors)

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1 each · Masonry drill bit, 8mm x 150mm

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SS-06Drill and fix the wall profile — solid brick or blockIf there's no dot-and-dab void and you're fixing straight into solid brick or block, drill to the plug depth marked on the packet, usually 40-50mm, using a masonry bit the same diameter as the plug. Blow the dust out of the hole, tap the plug in flush, then drive the screw through the profile into the plug. Don't overtighten — the plug should grip firmly without cracking the tile.

6 each · Wall plugs (red or brown, rated for solid masonry)

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6 each · Screws, 6mm x 50mm

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SS-07Drill and fix the wall profile — timber or metal stud wallIf your pilot hole test showed a stud wall rather than masonry behind the tiles, find the timber or metal upright nearest your fixing line. Timber studs give a solid, slightly warm resistance and bring out pale wood dust; metal studs feel harder and give off fine grey metal swarf. Into a timber stud, use a wood screw straight into its centre. Into a metal stud, use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or toggle-type hollow-wall anchor made for steel — never a plain wall plug or ordinary wood screw, both of which strip straight through 0.5mm steel.

6 each · Metal-stud self-drilling fixings

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6 each · Wood screws, 6mm x 60mm

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SS-08Why a stud wall alone often isn't enough hereA shower screen gets pushed and pulled every time it's opened, closed, or leant on, so a fixing into plasterboard alone — even a good toggle anchor — can work loose over time on a stud wall. If your wall turns out to be a timber or metal stud partition rather than solid masonry, the safest fix is a timber noggin fitted between the studs behind the tiles, screwed to the studs on each side, giving solid timber for the profile screws to bite into. This is extra work if the wall isn't already open, so weigh it up against fitting the screen to the nearest masonry wall instead if you have the choice.

1 m · Timber noggin, 44mm x 25mm

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SS-09Drill and fix the wall profile — lath and plasterLath and plaster walls (common in pre-1930s houses) have thin timber laths behind a soft lime plaster, and this crumbles easily around a normal wall plug. Drill a smaller pilot hole first to find a lath, then use a long screw fixing that passes through the plaster and grips the lath and the masonry or timber frame behind it, rather than relying on the plaster alone. If the plaster feels soft or crumbly as you drill, stop and fix into the nearest solid stud or masonry instead.

6 each · Long fixing screws, 6mm x 75mm

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SS-10Fix the floor channel to the trayRun a bead of sanitary-grade silicone along the underside of the floor channel, then press it into position on the tray, following your marked line. Secure it with the small screws supplied, if the kit uses them, keeping them clear of the tray's waterproof upstand. Wipe away any squeezed-out silicone before it skins over.

1 tube · Sanitary silicone sealant

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SS-11Fit the hinges or clamps and offer up the panelAttach the hinges or clamp bar to the wall profile as shown in the instructions, then lift the glass panel into place with a second pair of hands. Check the panel hangs plumb with your spirit level and swings or slides without catching the tray or tiles. Tighten the fixings evenly, a little at a time, rather than fully on one side first.

SS-12Seal every jointRun a neat, continuous bead of sanitary silicone along the join between the profile and the wall, and between the floor channel and the tray, both inside and out. Smooth each bead with a wet finger or sealant tool for a tidy, waterproof finish. Leave any masking tape in place until the silicone has skinned over, then peel it away.

1 tube · Sanitary silicone sealant

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1 roll · Masking tape

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SS-13Leave to cure, test, and tidy upLeave the silicone to cure fully before using the shower — check the tube for the curing time, usually around 24 hours. Once cured, run the shower briefly and check the tray, floor and wall joints for any sign of leaking. Wipe down the panel and profile, and clear away packaging and offcuts.

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